Edmond Fallot: Burgundy Mustard Ground on Stone in Beaune
Edmond Fallot makes mustard in Beaune, in the Côte-d'Or, at the mill Léon Bouley founded as a mustard works and oil mill in 1840. The house still crushes its seed between millstones, which it says keeps the paste from overheating, and it describes itself as an independent family firm. Its director, Marc Désarménien, is Edmond Fallot's grandson. According to the Beaune tourist office, it was Désarménien who began bringing mustard seed back into Burgundy's fields in the 1990s. The style itself is covered in Dijon Mustard: The Complete Guide, and the centuries before Fallot in the Dijon mustard history guide.
Who they are
The house's own history begins with Bouley in 1840. Edmond Fallot took over the mill from a Mr Château in 1928 and, in the house's words, gave the business a new lease of life. Info-Beaune, the local news site, fills in who he was. Born in 1889 in the Doubs, he worked as a papermaker before he turned to mustard. He was cited twice for his service in the First World War and was made a knight of the Legion of Honor on 31 December 1931. He had three daughters. His son-in-law Roger Désarménien joined the company in 1945 and took charge after Fallot died in 1962. Roger's son Marc joined in 1987 and has run the house since 1994.
The house says about twenty people work there. Info-Beaune reports that it received the Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant label in 2015. Info-Beaune also calls Fallot the last artisanal, independent mustard maker in France, and the shop's own product page calls it the last independent, family-owned mustard mill in Burgundy.
| Year | Event | Source |
|---|---|---|
| 1840 | Léon Bouley founds a mustard mill and oil works in Beaune | Fallot; Info-Beaune |
| 1928 | Edmond Fallot takes over the mill from Mr Château | Fallot |
| 1945 | Son-in-law Roger Désarménien joins | Fallot; Info-Beaune |
| 1962 | Edmond Fallot dies; Roger Désarménien takes charge | Info-Beaune |
| 1987 | Grandson Marc Désarménien joins his father | Fallot |
| 1990s | Marc Désarménien starts mustard-seed growing in Burgundy | Beaune tourist office |
| 1994 | Marc Désarménien becomes director | Info-Beaune |
| 2003 | The first visitor tour opens | Fallot; Info-Beaune |
| 2008 to 2009 | French homologation of the Moutarde de Bourgogne IGP in November 2008, EU registration in November 2009 | Légifrance; INAO |
| 2012 | Enjoy Fallot tasting space opens in Beaune, followed by a Dijon shop in 2014 | Fallot |
| 2015 | Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant label | Info-Beaune |
| 2019 | A 4,000-square-meter, solar-powered building extends the Beaune site | Fallot |
The mill
The house describes six stages: cleaning, measuring, steeping, milling, sieving and storage. After that the mustard is deaerated and packed. Milling is where the house sets itself apart. In the house's words, it mills on traditional millstones, a method that, "unlike the industrial processes used elsewhere, avoids the mustard paste being overheated." Sieving then strips the husks. French law requires that step for Dijon mustard and rules it out for moutarde à l'ancienne.
The seed, and the fight to grow it in Burgundy
Mustard seed was not always imported. The house writes that until the Second World War, Burgundy grew its mustard in the woods, in the clearings left by charcoal burners. The Beaune tourist office says that after the war the trade industrialized and turned to seed from North America and Eastern Europe. The house puts the imported share of seed used by the condiment industry at 95 percent, with Canada alone supplying 80 percent of the requirement. By that arithmetic, 15 percent comes from other countries and 5 percent is not imported.
The house says it has worked with other growers and manufacturers on reviving mustard seed in Burgundy. Taste France, the French government's food-promotion agency, dates that revival in the Côte-d'Or to the 1990s. On its home page, Fallot states that all its mustards are made with seed from the region.
What the words on the jar require
The word Dijon on a jar is not a place of origin. As Burgundy's regional tourist board puts it, Dijon mustard "is simply a name". French law does fix the recipe, though. Décret 2000-658 defines mustard as seed ground directly into a liquid such as water, fermentation vinegar or green-grape juice. The house credits the 18th-century discovery of verjuice, which it describes as grape juice harvested in Burgundy, with giving the mustard its finishing touch. The Moutarde de Bourgogne IGP is the only one of these names tied to a place. The French order approving its specification, published on Légifrance in 2008, names the applicant as the Association Moutarde de Bourgogne, 31 Faubourg Bretonnière, Beaune. That is the mill's own address.
| Name on the label | What the rule requires | Rule |
|---|---|---|
| Moutarde | Seed dry extract at least 15 percent of the finished weight | Décret 2000-658 |
| Moutarde de Dijon | Brassica nigra or Brassica juncea seed only, not de-oiled, sieved; husk at most 2 percent; seed dry extract at least 22 percent; seed fat at least 8 percent | Décret 2000-658 |
| Moutarde à l'ancienne | Coarsely ground, not sieved; seed dry extract at least 18 percent; seed fat at least 5 percent | Décret 2000-658 |
| Moutarde de Bourgogne IGP | Seed grown only in Côte-d'Or, Nièvre, Saône-et-Loire or Yonne; made with Burgundy appellation white wine, which Taste France puts at 25 percent or more of the liquid | INAO specification; EU Regulation 1131/2009 |
INAO describes the IGP mustard as light yellow, thick and creamy, with an intense heat and a clear note of white wine.
The jars
The shop's product page describes Fallot Dijon mustard (shop Fallot Dijon mustard) as black and brown seed mixed with verjuice and ground on stone to keep the seed's original bite. The seed-style Dijon (shop Fallot seed-style Dijon) is made from whole black and brown seeds, and the shop's product page describes its grainy texture. The tarragon Dijon (shop Fallot tarragon Dijon) is made with tarragon from France, and the honey balsamic Dijon (shop Fallot honey balsamic Dijon) with honey and balsamic vinegar from Modena, which the balsamic vinegar guide places in Emilia-Romagna. The range also includes a basil Dijon (shop Fallot basil Dijon) and a horseradish Dijon (shop Fallot horseradish Dijon).
A spoonful of the plain Dijon holds a vinaigrette together, and the guide to why mustard holds a vinaigrette together explains why. The complete guide to vinegar helps match the acid to it. The house also packs extra-fine cornichons (shop Edmond Fallot extra-fine cornichons), which belong on the same board, and the guide to what a cornichon is explains the size. The storage section of the Dijon Mustard complete guide covers where to keep an open jar.
Visiting Beaune
The house opened its first visitor tour in 2003 and a second, called Sensations Fortes, in 2009. Its home page celebrates twenty years of tours. Enjoy Fallot, the tasting space in Beaune, opened in 2012, and a Dijon shop followed in 2014. The Beaune tourist office adds that visitors can taste fresh mustard from the pump there and that the house works alongside Michelin-starred chefs in Burgundy and beyond.
The Fallot mustards and cornichons are gathered on one page (shop Edmond Fallot), and products ship nationwide from theambrosianpantry.com. The shop is at 263 Josephine Street in Cherry Creek, Denver, and visitors can ask staff questions in the shop.
Sources & Further Reading
- La Moutarderie Edmond Fallot: home page; family firm since 1840, regional seed, IGP, twenty years of tours
- La Moutarderie Edmond Fallot: the mill; Bouley, Fallot, the Désarméniens, millstones, seed imports, 2019 building
- La Moutarderie Edmond Fallot: mustard in Burgundy; woodland growing before 1939, verjuice, the IGP
- La Moutarderie Edmond Fallot: products and flavoring ingredients
- Info-Beaune, 27 July 2023: Edmond Fallot, 1889 to 1962
- Beaune Tourist Office: mustard in Beaune
- Burgundy Tourism: Burgundy mustard
- INAO: Moutarde de Bourgogne IGP
- Légifrance: order of 13 November 2008 approving the Moutarde de Bourgogne IGP specification
- Légifrance: Décret 2000-658 of 6 July 2000 on the names of mustards
- Taste France: Burgundy Mustard PGI
- The Pantry Dispatch: Dijon Mustard, The Complete Guide