Whole dried chiles, dark wrinkled anchos, long red guajillos and small bright árbol chiles, toasting on a clay comal beside small bowls of red, orange and deep brown chile flakes and a pot of brick-red chile sauce

Dried chiles and chile flakes: The Complete Guide

A dried chile is two ingredients at once. It is heat, and it is the flavor of a particular fruit, grown in a particular place and dried in a particular way: tomato and honey in one flake, cut hay in another, papaya and roasted corn in a third. New Mexico State University's account of the state's chile trade sets out the whole path in one sentence: red chile is usually dehydrated after harvest, and after dehydration it can be left as a whole pod, processed into flakes or processed into powder. This guide follows that path from the plant's origin to the pan.

Where chiles come from

Every chile in this guide, from a Basque pepper to a Turkish flake, descends from a plant first grown in the Americas. A 2007 study in Science, led by Linda Perry, found chile starch grains at archaeological sites from the Bahamas to southern Peru, the oldest at two sites in southwestern Ecuador dated to about 6,100 years ago. A 2014 study in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences combined genetics, archaeology, the ecology of wild chiles and historical linguistics and pointed to central-east Mexico as the place where the common chile, Capsicum annuum, was domesticated. How the plant then crossed oceans is told in the history of the chile's spread to Asia and Africa and in the Columbian Exchange history.

Where the heat is

The heat comes from capsaicinoids, and New Mexico State University's chile program is specific about where they are made: in glands on the fruit's placenta, the pale ribs inside the pod. The seeds are not the source of heat, the same publication notes, though they may come in contact with it because they grow against the placenta. A cook who wants the flavor of a dried chile with less of its fire splits the pod and pulls out the ribs, not only the seeds.

Heat is reported in Scoville Heat Units. The Scoville Organoleptic Test, published by W. L. Scoville in 1912, was the first laboratory test for chile heat and relied on human tasters. Today the measurement is made by high-performance liquid chromatography and converted to the same units. In practice any single number is a range. NMSU lists genetics, weather, growing conditions and fruit age as the things that move heat, and notes that a mild cultivar becomes hotter under stress in the field, though a cultivar bred for low heat will not turn truly hot. Two harvests of the same flake can differ, which is one reason to taste a new jar before a full spoon goes into the pot.

Fresh name, dried name

In Mexico, chile seco is a working category of its own. Mexico's agricultural statistics service, SIAP, describes it as a generic term for chiles left to ripen and dry or be dehydrated, among them ancho, mulato and guajillo, and notes that some, such as chipotle and morita, are smoked as well as dried. The same sheet says that dried ancho, mulato, mirasol, guajillo and pasilla go mainly to the artisanal mole industry.

The confusing part is the names. A Mexican chile usually changes its name when it dries. A learning resource from Mexico's Secretaría de Educación Pública lays out the pairs, and says drying concentrates flavor, firms the chile and develops aromas of its own.

Fresh chile Dried name What the drying gives it, per the SEP resource
Jalapeño Chipotle Smoked: smoky, deep and hot
Poblano Ancho Sweet and mild; for salsas and moles
Chilaca Pasilla For stews and full-bodied broths
Mirasol Guajillo Not described
Bola Cascabel Color, flavor and balanced heat
De árbol De árbol seco Hot and aromatic
Serrano Seco, or balín Keeps its heat, changes texture

The practical reading: a recipe that calls for anchos wants the sweet, mild dried pod, not a fresh poblano, and a recipe that calls for chipotle wants smoke as much as heat. Chipotles in adobo, such as Xilli's (shop Xilli Chipotles Adobados), bring the smoked jalapeño in a ready sauce.

Oaxaca and the chilhuacle

The chilhuacle of Oaxaca shows how local a dried chile can be. A 2023 literature review by García-Gómez, Bernal-González and Durán-Domínguez-de-Bazúa traces the name to the Nahuatl chilli, chile, and a word for dried, or dried with wood smoke. The review quotes a description of the pepper as a traditional chile of Cuicatlán in the Cañada region of Oaxaca, grown in three colors, negro, rojo and amarillo. The pod does not wrinkle or lose its shape as it dries. It measures about 7 centimeters wide and 10 long, and its flavor is described as smoky, fruity and slightly hot. Mole negro, the same source says, cannot do without it.

It is also fragile. The review describes a crop repeatedly close to disappearing, vulnerable to whitefly, aphids, tobacco mosaic and begomovirus, and to heavy rain that pools in the calyx and rots the fruit, with migration thinning the number of people able to tend it. It credits growers and chefs, beginning with the chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita in the early 1980s, with bringing it back. At INIFAP's INNOVA-TEC 2016 event, Porfirio López-López of Mexico's national agricultural research institute noted 25 native chile varieties in Oaxaca out of 64 reported nationally. That puts more than a third of the national count in one state.

Regional flakes

The six flakes below are as specific as any named Mexican pod. Each comes with its origin, how it was dried, the heat its maker or its appellation states, and the flavor notes the source gives.

Flake Where it grows How it is dried Heat, as stated Flavor notes, per the source
Silk Chili (Maraş) Kahramanmaraş, Turkey Sun-dried, stone-ground Mild Roasted tomato, honey
Piment d'Espelette Ten communes of the Labourd, French Basque country Strung and ripened, finished in an oven, then ground Strong but not burning Fruity, grilled, cut hay
Cobanero Around Cobán, Alta Verapaz, Guatemala Air-dried Hotter than serrano, in cayenne's range Papaya, roasted corn, slightly smoky
Red Jalapeño Fire Tongue Farm, Santa Cruz and Hollister, California Vine-ripened red, sun-dried, ground Medium Summer tomato, sugar cane
Smoked Chipotle Fire Tongue Farm, California Smoked over fruit-tree prunings Medium-hot Campfire, roasted tomato
Jimmy Nardello Norwich Meadows Farm, Chenango County, New York Dried sweet frying pepper None Cherry, sun-dried tomato

Silk Chili (shop Silk Chili Flakes) is a Maraş pepper that Burlap & Barrel describes as botanically identical to the Aleppo pepper cultivated in Syria for centuries. It comes from a pepper business that Hilmi Bey started four decades ago, according to Burlap & Barrel, and is now handing to his son. The name recalls the silk ropes once used in grinding. Villa Jerada also packs an Aleppo pepper flake (shop Villa Jerada Aleppo Chile Pepper Flakes), and the Villa Jerada producer guide introduces the company.

Piment d'Espelette carries a French protected designation of origin. Its specification limits it to Capsicum annuum of the Gorria variety or local seed of the same type, grown, processed and packed within an area the national committee drew in 1999: all of Larressore and Souraïde and parts of eight other communes in the Labourd. The fresh peppers are conical, 7 to 14 centimeters long, and are strung in cords of 20 to 100 to ripen and dry. The powder must come from the peppers of a single farm, ground after ripening and a final oven drying, with particles no larger than 5 millimeters and moisture under 12 percent. La Ferme Nahia packs an Espelette pepper powder (shop La Ferme Nahia Espelette Pepper Powder).

Cobanero (shop Cobanero Chili Flakes) is grown only around Cobán, and its maker calls it a rare Maya variety and one of the oldest domesticated chiles. The two California flakes come from one farm: Red Jalapeño (shop Red Jalapeño Chili Flakes) is the El Jefe variety left on the vine until red and sweet, and Smoked Chipotle (shop Smoked Chipotle Chili Flakes) is its smoked sibling. Jimmy Nardello (shop Jimmy Nardello Pepper Flakes) is an Italian frying pepper brought to the United States in 1887 by Giuseppe and Angella Nardiello and kept going by their son Jimmy. It is on Slow Food's Ark of Taste, and it has no heat at all, which makes it a flake for pepper flavor alone. The Burlap & Barrel producer guide covers how the company sources from named farms.

Two other red peppers have guides of their own: Spanish pimentón in the pimentón and smoked paprika guide, and the Tunisian chile paste in the harissa guide.

How a chile is dried

Drying is the step that decides flavor, color and shelf life. For New Mexico's commercial red chile, NMSU Guide H-236 gives the numbers: chile is dried to 8 to 12 percent moisture, depending on the buyer, at dehydrator temperatures of 140 to 150°F (60 to 65°C). Tradition does the same job in other ways. New Mexicans have long strung mature red pods into ristras, and NMSU notes that only types that dry well enough not to rot can be used. Espelette growers string cords that must allow the peppers to ripen and dry. The Silk Chili is sun-dried in Turkey, and Fire Tongue Farm's chipotle is smoked over fruit-tree prunings in California. Read the flake table again with that in mind: its drying column is a map of smoke, sun and oven.

Whole, flakes or powder

The form matters too. NMSU's post-harvest guide says ground chile loses color faster than whole pods in storage, and that flakes need less space than whole pods and hold their color better than powder. For the home cook that sorts the three forms by job:

  • Whole pods give the most control: toasted, soaked and blended for sauces, moles and braises, with the ribs left in or taken out.
  • Flakes are the everyday form, for cooking and finishing.
  • Powder disperses fastest into a sauce or rub; buy it in amounts that get used and keep it cool and dark.

On a label, the useful facts are the pepper's name, the place it grew and how it was dried. A specific name such as guajillo, Maraş or Espelette points to a particular flavor, place and drying method.

Storing dried chiles

Spices do not spoil the way milk does, McCormick notes; they lose aroma and flavor. For chile, color is the clock. NMSU's post-harvest guide identifies cultivar and storage temperature as the biggest influences on color retention and recommends commercial storage at 32 to 41°F (0 to 5°C) in the dark. The same guide warns that chile powder taken out of cold storage can lose color quickly. At home that argues for cold storage only in sealed bags, opened once they have warmed to room temperature, and otherwise a cool, dark cupboard well away from the stove. McCormick singles out repeated heat as the enemy of spice life.

Form Where Quality range Basis
Whole dried pods Sealed jar or bag, cool dark cupboard; bagged in the refrigerator or freezer for long keeping Three to four years McCormick range for whole spices; NMSU: whole pods hold color better than ground
Flakes Closed container, cool dark cupboard Keep cool and dark NMSU: flakes hold color better than powder
Ground chile and chili powder Closed container, cool dark cupboard, never above the stove Two to four years McCormick range for ground spices, which names chili powder and paprika
Chile oil made only with commercially dried ingredients Cool dark cupboard No more than three months University of Maine Cooperative Extension bulletin on flavored oils

The test is color and smell. A good flake is still red and smells of fruit when rubbed between the fingers; one that has gone brown and smells of dust has lost what it was bought for. Pods or flakes that took on moisture and show mold go in the bin. The guide to whether spices expire and the shelf-by-shelf storage guide cover the rest of the drawer.

Cooking with dried chiles

Heat travels in fat. Capsaicin is practically insoluble in cold water, PubChem's compound record notes, which helps explain why oil is the usual carrier for a chile's heat. The guide to toasting and blooming spices covers the technique.

Whole pods. Wipe them, split them, and take out the stem, seeds and as much rib as the dish wants. Toast them briefly on a dry pan or comal until fragrant and just pliable, and take them off before they scorch. Then soak them in hot water until soft and blend them with some of the soaking liquid into the base of a sauce, an adobo or a braise. Ancho, guajillo and pasilla are among the dried chiles SIAP lists as going mainly into Mexico's mole industry.

Flakes. Bloom them in warm oil at the start of a dish, or scatter them over at the end for color and a brighter note. The poured chile oil recipe is the one to learn first: hot oil poured over flakes, a jar that goes on eggs, noodles, beans and soup. Add fried aromatics and it moves toward the family covered in the chili crisp guide; add vinegar and fresh peppers and it becomes the subject of the hot sauce guide.

Where each flake fits. A mild, tomato-sweet flake like Silk Chili or an Aleppo-style flake can go on by the spoonful, on eggs, yogurt, flatbread or the muhammara recipe. Espelette goes where a strong but not burning warmth is wanted, on fish, eggs and white beans. Cobanero brings real heat and fruit to beans, braises and marinades. Smoked Chipotle does the work of a smoky ingredient in tomato sauces and bean pots, and Jimmy Nardello gives pepper flavor to a dish for cooks who want none of the heat. The spaghetti aglio e olio recipe and the romesco recipe are two good places to taste flakes side by side.

Chiles and health

A 2015 cohort of just under half a million Chinese adults, published in the BMJ, is one large study of spicy-food eating. Compared with people who ate spicy food less than once a week, those who ate it one or two days a week had a 10 percent lower relative risk of death over the follow-up, and those who ate it six or seven days a week a 14 percent lower relative risk. The study was observational, and the authors said more research was needed before the link could be called causal. On the old worry about ulcers, a 2006 review in Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition concluded that capsaicin does not cause them.

Short answers to the rest

Are the seeds the hottest part? No; the heat is made in the ribs, and the seeds can pick some up by contact. Is chipotle a variety? No; it is a jalapeño, dried and smoked. Is Aleppo pepper the same as Maraş? Burlap & Barrel describes its Maraş-grown Silk Chili as botanically identical to the Aleppo pepper; the difference is where it grows. Can a sweet pepper flake stand in for chile flakes? For color and pepper flavor, yes; Jimmy Nardello flakes have no heat. Why did the sauce turn bitter? Look first for a scorched pod or flakes burned in oil that was too hot.

The shop is at 263 Josephine Street in Cherry Creek, Denver, and products ship nationwide from theambrosianpantry.com.

Sources & Further Reading

Back to blog

Shop this story

Shop this story (6)