Cookbook Guide: Building a Kitchen Shelf That Gets Used
A cookbook earns its shelf space one way: by being cooked from. This guide sorts cookbooks by the job they do, from the encyclopedia that answers questions to the method book that changes how a cook thinks, the regional book that keeps a cuisine on record, and the pantry book that tells a cook what to do with the jar already in the cupboard. To browse the shelf, shop cookbooks.
The reference book
A reference book is for looking things up, not for reading straight through. The model is the Larousse Gastronomique. Fine Dining Lovers traces it to 1938, when Prosper Montagné curated the first edition, with a preface by Auguste Escoffier and the chef Philéas Gilbert. It was revised in 1960, 1967 and 1984, then substantially in 1996 under a committee chaired by Joël Robuchon, and the 2007 French edition was renamed the Grand Larousse Gastronomique. The same article counts about 4,000 entries and 2,500 recipes (shop Larousse Gastronomique).
The flavor reference is a newer kind of book. The Flavor Bible, by Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg, first published in 2008, is organized as a guide to hundreds of ingredients and the herbs, spices and seasonings that pair with them, drawing on chefs from restaurants such as Le Bernardin and Gramercy Tavern. It is the book to open with a single ingredient in hand and no plan (shop The Flavor Bible).
The method book
A method book teaches principles that work across recipes. Samin Nosrat's Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat, published by Simon & Schuster in 2017 with more than 150 illustrations by Wendy MacNaughton, organizes cooking around four elements: salt to enhance flavor, fat to carry it and shape texture, acid to balance it, and heat to decide a dish's final texture. It won a James Beard Award and an IACP Cookbook Award (shop Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat).
Bread has its own method books. Ken Forkish, who opened Ken's Artisan Bakery in Portland in 2001, published Flour Water Salt Yeast with Ten Speed Press in 2012. Portland Monthly summarized its approach at the time: time and temperature treated as ingredients, loaves baked in a Dutch oven, and dough mixed by hand, which Forkish argues teaches a baker the feel of the dough (shop Flour Water Salt Yeast).
The regional book
A regional book keeps a cuisine on record. La Cucina: The Regional Cooking of Italy, from the Italian Academy of Cuisine and published in English by Rizzoli, holds 2,000 recipes. Its publisher says the Academy visited all 20 of Italy's regions and interviewed grandmothers in their own kitchens, collecting recipes many of which had been passed down by word of mouth and never written down, then adapted them for home cooks today (shop La Cucina).
Marcella Hazan's Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking is the other half of that shelf, one teacher's voice where La Cucina is a chorus. Penguin Random House describes it as bringing together her The Classic Italian Cook Book and More Classic Italian Cooking, with nearly 500 recipes. Hazan was born in Cesenatico on the Adriatic coast of Emilia-Romagna and earned doctorates in natural sciences and biology from the University of Ferrara before she became, in the publisher's words, America's premier teacher of Italian cooking. Knopf published a 30th anniversary edition in 2022 (shop Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking). The Italian pantry pasta guide covers the jars and boxes those books call for.
The pantry book
The pantry book starts from an ingredient rather than a cuisine. These are the books for the jar or bag already in the cupboard and the question of what to do with it. The Rancho Gordo Heirloom Bean Guide starts from the bean (shop The Rancho Gordo Heirloom Bean Guide). Anna Hezel's Tin to Table and Chris McDade's The Magic of Tinned Fish start from the tin (shop Tin to Table, shop The Magic of Tinned Fish), and pair well with the tinned fish guide. James Park's Chili Crisp starts from a single jar (shop Chili Crisp by James Park), and the chili crisp guide covers the condiment itself.
How to choose one
- Read a recipe before buying. Pick one dish and read it through. If the instructions make sense and the headnote says why the dish works, the rest of the book probably will too.
- Check the measurements. For baking, a book that gives weights as well as cups lets a cook work from a kitchen scale.
- Match the book to the cook. A new cook gets more from a method book than an encyclopedia. An experienced cook may get more from a regional book than another weeknight collection.
- Look at the index. A useful index lists recipes by main ingredient as well as by name, so the book can answer the question of what to make with what is on hand.
Gifting a cookbook
A cookbook is one of the easiest gifts to make personal. Pair it with an ingredient it calls for: a bag of heirloom beans with a bean book, a tin of fish with a tinned fish book, a bottle of good olive oil with an Italian classic. Mark a recipe worth starting with, and a set of page markers makes that easy (shop Book Darts). For the drinker on the list, the cocktail shelf has books of its own (shop cocktail books), and the wider paper goods and books collection holds cards and notebooks to go with them. The gift guide sorts more ideas by person.
A kitchen library should be judged the way a pan is: by what comes out of it. Four or five books that each do their own job, opened often enough to stain, will teach more than a shelf of handsome spines that never leave the wall. The shop is at 263 Josephine Street in Cherry Creek, Denver, where visitors can ask staff questions, and products ship nationwide from theambrosianpantry.com.
Sources & Further Reading
- Fine Dining Lovers: Larousse Gastronomique, the bible of gastronomy uncovered (August 2020)
- Hachette Book Group: The Flavor Bible
- Simon & Schuster: Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat
- Portland Monthly: Ken Forkish's Flour Water Salt Yeast (September 2012)
- Rizzoli, via Hardie Grant: La Cucina, The Regional Cooking of Italy
- Penguin Random House: Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking