The Pantry Dispatch
Guides to the foods, makers and techniques behind what we stock.
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Producer ProfileOther Cooking Sauces
Noma Projects: A Restaurant Fermentation Lab, Bottled
Noma Projects works from a workshop beside the restaurant noma in Copenhagen, and its first release, in 2022, was a smoked mushroom...
Producer ProfileSwedish Candy
Bubs Godis: The Swedish Skull Makers Who Skipped the Gelatin
Bubs is the Swedish candy with the skulls, and it got its name from a family: Bernt, Ulrik, Birgitta and Stefan Lindström,...
Producer ProfileChocolate Bars
Ocelot Chocolate: The Dundee Tins Made from Shaved Bars
Ocelot's drinking chocolate tins hold flakes shaved from the maker's own 70 percent bars. The chocolate comes from cacao grown in Virunga...
Producer ProfileSpices
Villa Jerada and the Aleppo Pepper That Moved to Turkey
Mehdi Boujrada grew up by the beach in Casablanca and named his company after the family house. His Aleppo pepper flakes are...
Producer ProfileTinned Fish
José Gourmet's Octopus and Squid, and the Artists Who Draw Them
José Gourmet was founded in 2008 by a pilot and a design professor living in Macau, and its tins carry drawings signed...
Producer ProfileDrink Syrups
Raft and the Portland Couple Who Took Over a Syrup Brand
Raft was already a Portland syrup brand when the couple behind The Bitter Housewife bitters took it over in 2016. The syrups...
Producer ProfileCaramels
Fat Toad Farm and the Vermont Goat's Milk Caramel
A Vermont family bought one goat in 2007 and ended up with a caramel company. Fat Toad Farm's goat's milk caramel is...
Producer ProfileAsian Ingredients
Yugeta Shoyu: A Century of Cedar-Barrel Soy Sauce in Saitama
Yugeta Shoyu was founded in Sakado, just northwest of Tokyo, in September 1923, on brewing equipment passed down from an older soy...
Producer ProfileSalts
Saltverk: Icelandic Flaky Salt Made with Hot-Spring Heat
In the late 18th century the Danish king had salt boiled from seawater over the hot springs at Reykjanes, on Ísafjarðardjúp in...
Producer ProfilePasta Sauces
Ranise: Ligurian Pesto from the Olive Hills Above Imperia
Ranise started in 1995 in Dolcedo, in the hills behind Imperia, when the family set out to recover olive groves their ancestors...
Producer ProfileNuts
Varah Gourmet: The Spiced Nuts That Began With a Box of Dates
Pooja Bhatia grew up in Dubai, spent summers in India and now calls California home. She started a gifting business in Dubai...
Producer ProfileNon-Alcoholic Beverages
St. Agrestis and the Phony Negroni, Bottle by Bottle
St. Agrestis started as a Brooklyn amaro, and its Phony Negroni is built the way an amaro is: botanicals steeped one by...
Producer ProfileMustards
Edmond Fallot: Burgundy Mustard Ground on Stone in Beaune
Léon Bouley founded a mustard mill and oil works in Beaune in 1840. Edmond Fallot, a papermaker twice cited for his conduct...
Producer ProfileJams & Jellies
BRINS Jam and Marmalade, from Brooklyn by Way of Louisiana
BRINS started as a way to use up care packages of backyard citrus and herbs sent to Brooklyn from Louisiana. The name...
Producer ProfileHot Sauces
Les Moulins Mahjoub: The Tunisian Family Behind the Harissa Jar
Tebourba sits in Tunisia's Medjerda valley, and the Mahjoub family's roots there go back to the 18th century. The company's own tagline...
Producer ProfileGrains
Agribosco Guide: Farro from the Foot of Monte Cucco
Agribosco began in 1989 in Sigillo, a town of 2,500 people at the foot of Monte Cucco, when its founders turned to...
Producer ProfileCrackers
Rustic Bakery Guide: The Flatbread a Cheese Shop Ordered
Rustic Bakery began in 2005 with one sourdough flatbread cracker and an order for 50 cases from the owners of Cowgirl Creamery....
Producer ProfilePickled / Brined / Oil Soaked Goods
Maison Marc: Three Generations of Burgundy Cornichons
Marc Jeannequin grew cornichons for a local cannery in the 1950s. His son Florent supplied the Amora-Maille cannery at Appoigny until it...
Producer ProfileGrains
Zursun and the Idaho Lentils Lola Weyman Found
In the late 1980s Lola Weyman found farmers in the Palouse, the wheat country of northern Idaho, growing little-known lentils, and began...
Producer ProfilePickled / Brined / Oil Soaked Goods
Caravaglio: The Salina Caper Farm Behind the Oil-Packed Jar
Nino Caravaglio's father picked about 2,500 kilos of capers a year on Salina and sold his red wine in bulk. The son...
Producer ProfileTea
Mariage Frères Black Teas, Read Tin by Tin
Mariage Frères dates its Paris tea house to 1854. Its black teas run from a malty breakfast blend to a Chinese leaf...
Producer ProfileSweet Bakery
Antonio Mattei and the Blue Bag from Prato
The almond biscotti in the blue paper bag come from a bakery in the old center of Prato that Antonio Mattei opened...
Producer ProfileOlives & Tapenades
I Contadini: Two Puglian Table Olives, Cured Slowly in Brine
Three siblings in Salento, inspired by a grandfather who grew capers, built I Contadini, a company that grows, picks and jars its...
Producer ProfileTinned Fish
IASA of Cetara: The Anchovy House Behind the Colatura
A Cetara family founded IASA in 1969, and the company says it was the first in the world to pack tuna in...
Producer ProfileGrains
Rancho Gordo and the Bean Marcella Hazan Missed
Steve Sando started Rancho Gordo by growing beans next to his tomatoes and selling them at a farmers market. More than two...
Producer ProfileTinned Fish
José Gourmet Ventresca: The Tuna Belly in the Illustrated Tin
José Gourmet puts its tuna belly in a tin illustrated by André Letria, with a short text by Eugénio Roda and two...
Producer ProfileChocolate Bars
Venchi: The Producer Guide to Turin's 1878 Chocolate House
Venchi has been making chocolate in Turin since 1878. It began in a small flat with twenty-year-old Silvano Venchi's early experiments, moved...
Producer ProfileSalts
Jacobsen Salt Co. Guide: Netarts Bay Flake and Kosher Salt
Jacobsen Salt Co. makes flake and kosher sea salt from the water of Netarts Bay, south of Tillamook on the Oregon coast,...
Producer ProfileSalts
Maldon Sea Salt Guide: England's Pyramid Flake
By the company's own account, the Osborne family has made Maldon salt from the water of the Blackwater estuary in Essex since...
Producer ProfileChocolate Bars
Fossa Chocolate Guide: Singapore's Curious Bean-to-Bar Maker
The easiest way to misunderstand Fossa Chocolate is to begin with the salted egg. Or the bak kut teh. Or the bar...
Producer ProfileTinned Fish
Alalunga Cannery Guide: Inside a Small Cantabrian Workshop
Artesanos Alalunga began as an export idea in Santander and became a small canning workshop in Reocín. This guide follows the Huidobro...
Kitchen Know-HowTea
How to Taste Tea
A professional taster reads dozens of cups before lunch with a spoon, a loud slurp and a standard brew. The method fits...
Regional GuideDenver and Local
The Denver Pantry: What to Stock for Colorado Cooking
A Denver kitchen runs on different physics than the recipe books assume. Water boils at 203°F instead of 212, a three-minute egg...
Complete GuidePasta
The Italian Pantry Pasta Guide: Tomatoes, Pesto, Preserved Vegetables, Fresh Pasta and Tools
There is a point in learning to cook when the supermarket category called “tomato sauce” stops making much sense. Passata, whole peeled...
Buying GuideGrains
Buying Dried Beans: What the Bag Is Allowed Not to Say
A bag of dried beans is the quietest label in the pantry. It is not required to say when the beans were...
Storage and Shelf LifeAsian Ingredients
Does Soy Sauce Go Bad? How It Keeps, the Fridge and the Salt
Soy sauce does not spoil, but it does fade: brewers say an opened bottle is at its best for about a month...
Complete GuideTea
Lapsang Chinbara Tea Guide: Mariage Frères' Smoked Lapsang Souchong
Smoke is not just a flavor reference in Lapsang Chinbara: Mariage Frères says the Chinese black tea is smoked over a wood...
Complete GuideTea
Fuji Yama Tea Guide: Mariage Frères' Japanese Green Tea
Fuji Yama is the Japanese green tea Mariage Frères offers as an initiation to the subtleties of Japanese green tea. Where the...
Complete GuideTea
Wedding Impérial Tea Guide: Mariage Frères' Assam, Chocolate & Caramel Black Tea
Wedding Impérial starts with golden Assam leaves and moves toward chocolate and caramel. Here is what Mariage Frères actually documents about the...
Kitchen Know-HowChocolate Bars
Dark Chocolate and Your Health: What the Studies Say and Don't
Every few months a headline says dark chocolate is good for the heart, the brain or the waistline, and every few months...
Storage and Shelf LifePasta Sauces
Does Pesto Go Bad? How Long a Jar Keeps, and Why It Turns Brown
An open jar of pesto goes from bright green to olive drab in a day, and a homemade batch does it in...
Storage and Shelf LifeNuts
Do Nuts Go Bad? Why They Turn Rancid and Where to Keep Them
A bag of walnuts opened after a summer on the shelf smells faintly of paint, and the almonds in the jar have...
Kitchen Know-HowMustards
Emulsions: Why Mustard Holds a Vinaigrette Together
Shake oil and vinegar in a jar and the cloud does not last. Add a spoon of Dijon first and the same...
Storage and Shelf LifeTinned Fish
Does Tinned Shellfish Go Bad? Mussels, Cockles and Clams
A sealed tin of cockles is one of the most stable foods in the house and one of the most perishable once...
Buying GuidePickled / Brined / Oil Soaked Goods
How to Buy Capers: The Salt, the Size and the Seal
A caper jar is small, the print is smaller, and the word that sells it, nonpareil, is a size, not a quality....
Kitchen Know-HowVinegars
Balsamic, Sherry or Red Wine Vinegar: Which for What
Three bottles, all made from grapes, all called vinegar, and each suited to different dishes. Balsamic of Modena is cooked or concentrated...
Storage and Shelf LifeBar & Beverage
Does Vermouth Go Bad? The Fridge, the Sugar and the Wormwood
The bottle of sweet vermouth that has stood on the bar cart since last winter is the reason the Manhattan tasted flat....
Kitchen Know-HowOther Cooking Sauces
What Is Umami, and Which Jars Have the Most
Umami gets used as a compliment for anything that tastes deep, and the word has lost its edges. It has a precise...
Storage and Shelf LifeSpices
Whole or Ground Spices, and How Long Either One Really Keeps
Nearly everything about spices comes down to one fact: the flavor lives in volatile oils, and grinding lets them go. That settles...
Storage and Shelf LifeNut Butters
Why Nut Butter Separates, When It Turns, and Where to Keep It
A jar of good nut butter opened after a month in the cupboard has a layer of oil on top and a...
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