Dried chickpeas and five colors of lentils in small ceramic bowls on a wooden table, one bowl tipped to spill red split lentils across the wood

Chickpeas and Lentils, from Field to Pot: The Complete Guide

Chickpeas and lentils were in the first fields human beings ever planted, and ten thousand years later they are still the two most useful seeds on a pantry shelf. One turns into hummus and the stews of the Mediterranean and South Asia; the other goes from bag to table in twenty minutes and asks for nothing but water. This guide is the whole subject in one place: where the two came from, the types worth knowing apart, what the grades and dates on a bag mean, and how to cook every common kind. The buying guide goes deeper on labels, and the questions piece covers storage and health in detail.

Ten thousand years in a seed

Agriculture began in Southwest Asia with a small set of founder crops, and both of these seeds were in it. Alongside einkorn and emmer wheat, barley and flax, the first farmers domesticated a handful of pulses: lentil, pea, bitter vetch and chickpea, around ten thousand years before the present. Their wild ancestors still grow in the Fertile Crescent, the wild lentil as Lens orientalis and the wild chickpea as Cicer reticulatum, and comparing the cultivated seeds with those wild relatives shows what ten millennia of selection did: domesticated Fertile Crescent crops carry on average about ninety percent more mass per seed than their wild progenitors. Bigger seeds meant bigger harvests, and the two pulses followed wheat and barley into cuisines from the Atlantic to the Ganges.

Both belong to the category the United Nations calls pulses, the dry seeds of legume plants. The UN General Assembly declared 2016 the International Year of Pulses, implemented by FAO, and now marks World Pulses Day every February 10, partly for nutrition, since pulses are nutrient-dense sources of vitamins and minerals, and partly for the fields themselves: pulse plants fix atmospheric nitrogen into the soil, which improves soil fertility and can improve fertilizer use efficiency for the crops that follow. A pot of chickpeas is one of the few dinners that left its field better than it found it.

Chickpeas: kabuli and desi

Every chickpea on earth is one species, Cicer arietinum, sold in two forms. The kabuli type is a large, round, beige seed with a thin, cream-colored coat, a mild nutty flavor and a firm texture. It is the chickpea of salads, soups, stews, roasted snacks and hummus. The desi type is smaller and angular, with a thicker, colored seed coat, and in South Asia it goes by the names Bengal gram and chana. The two cook the same way; the desi's sturdier coat makes it the more rustic bite of the pair, and the kabuli the creamier one.

What to do with them is the least mysterious question in the pantry. Blended with tahini they become hummus from dried chickpeas (hummus from dried chickpeas guide), and the sesame side of that equation has its own primer in the tahini recipe to learn first guide. Simmered with pasta they become pasta e ceci (pasta e ceci guide), and stewed with rosemary and tomato they become ceci in umido (ceci in umido guide). Cooked chickpeas in jars are the ten-minute head start, a different tool for a different night, and there is no shame in reaching for one on a weeknight.

Lentils: a color wheel

Lentils are small, lens-shaped pulses, one species again, Lens culinaris, wearing many coats. The common types sold in the United States are green, brown, French green, Pardina, beluga, and red in both whole and split form. The differences are not decoration: some types hold their shape through cooking and others collapse into a smooth, hearty spoonful, and choosing the right one is most of lentil cookery.

Green and brown lentils are the all-purpose middle of the wheel, the soup and stew lentils. French green lentils are smaller, darker and firmer. The most famous of that style is the Lentille verte du Puy, grown around Le Puy in France and protected as an appellation d'origine under the French national origin institute INAO, one of the rare vegetables with the same legal machinery behind it as a great wine. The Spanish Pardina is a small brown lentil in the same shape-holding camp. Beluga lentils are tiny, black and glossy, named for the caviar they resemble, and they keep their bead through cooking. Red lentils, sold whole or split, sit at the other pole: the split ones cook in five to ten minutes and dissolve into the puree that dal and red lentil soups are built on. Holding shape and melting down are two different jobs, and every color on the wheel is the best lentil for one of them.

What the grades on the bag mean

In the United States each seed has a federal grade standard behind it. Chickpeas are graded under the U.S. Standards for Beans as the class Chickpea/Garbanzo Beans, with numbered grades; the standards were revised in 2023 so that seeds over fourteen percent moisture are designated the special grade High Moisture, and a lot containing more than two percent contrasting chickpeas can grade no higher than U.S. No. 3. Lentils have their own U.S. Standards for Lentils, a single class with defect counts for damaged, weevil-damaged, heat-damaged and split seeds, plus a special grade, Green, reserved for clear-seeded lentils with a natural, uniformly green color. None of this appears on a retail label in plain words, which is why the buying guide exists; the logic is the same one covered for their bigger cousins in the beans buying guide.

The date on the bag is a quality date, not a safety date. The FDA, in its 2019 letter to the food industry on date labeling, supports the phrase Best if Used By precisely because it describes peak quality, and states that a properly stored food product should be safe, wholesome and of good quality after that date. What the calendar does change in a dried pulse is cooking behavior: old seeds take longer to soften, sometimes dramatically, which is the same lesson taught at length in how to cook heirloom beans. Growers who mill and ship by crop year, the model behind Rancho Gordo and Zursun, exist because fresh-crop pulses cook better.

In the kitchen

The single most useful fact in this guide: lentils never need soaking. Rinse them and cook. Most types simmer for twenty to forty minutes until tender, and split red lentils take only five to ten. The working ratio is one cup of dry lentils to about two and a half cups of water.

Chickpeas are the patient one. The standard method is a soak, either eight to twenty-four hours in cold water or the quick version, two minutes at a boil and an hour of rest, followed by a simmer of an hour and a half to two hours, with one cup of dry chickpeas to three cups of water. Skipping the soak is not a moral failure, it just moves the time into the pot. On salt, the growers' association's own pressure-cooking instructions add it after cooking for the best flavor, which is as close to a ruling as the debate gets.

Cooking times for pulses are honest ranges, not promises. The Pulse Growers' own cooking-time project puts the standard method anywhere from twenty minutes to four hours, and names the three thieves: old seeds, hard water and high altitude. That last one is not a footnote in Denver, where water boils below the sea-level temperature; the altitude guide covers the arithmetic, and a pressure cooker cancels the problem entirely.

Every type, one table

Type The seed Soak Stovetop time Water per dry cup Reach for it in
Kabuli chickpea Large, round, beige, thin coat 8 to 24 hr, or quick soak 1.5 to 2 hr 3 cups Hummus, salads, stews, roasting
Desi chickpea Smaller, angular, dark, thick coat 8 to 24 hr, or quick soak 1.5 to 2 hr 3 cups Curries, chana dishes
Green or brown lentil Flat disc, matte green or brown None 20 to 40 min 2.5 cups Soups, everyday stews
French green (Puy style) Small, dark, marbled green None 20 to 40 min 2.5 cups Warm salads, sides with vinaigrette
Pardina Small, brown, firm None 20 to 40 min 2.5 cups Spanish stews, braises
Beluga Tiny, black, glossy None 20 to 40 min 2.5 cups Plating, grain bowls, salads
Red split Coral halves None 5 to 10 min 2.5 cups Dal, pureed soups

Times are for reasonably fresh seeds in soft water near sea level; older seeds, mineral-heavy water and mountain kitchens all stretch them.

What to cook first

Start where the cluster starts, with the recipe to learn first guide. From there the map is short. Chickpea side: hummus (hummus guide) for the blender, pasta e ceci (pasta e ceci guide) for the weeknight, ceci in umido (ceci in umido guide) for the pot that simmers while something else gets done. Lentil side: red splits collapse into a dal in about the time the rice takes, and whole spices toasted and bloomed in oil, per the spice technique, are what separate a good one from a beige one. Firm green lentils dressed warm with the house vinaigrette are a bistro lunch from two jars. And because pulse plants feed the soil as they grow, they are the natural spine of meatless cooking with real depth, the full argument of beans without meat. On the label side, two names that map straight onto the table: Rancho Gordo's garbanzo beans (shop Rancho Gordo's garbanzo beans) for the kabuli row and their black caviar lentils (shop black caviar lentils) for the beluga one.

Keeping them

Dried pulses want a sealed container somewhere cool, dark and dry, and they reward being bought at a pace that gets them cooked within a year or so, less for the sake of safety than because young seeds cook faster and more evenly. The quality date on the bag means what the FDA says it means, best quality rather than a deadline. Opened jars of cooked chickpeas move to the refrigerator. The rest of the storage detail, along with the health questions, lives in the questions piece.

The shop is at 263 Josephine Street in Cherry Creek, Denver, and products ship nationwide from theambrosianpantry.com. Visitors can ask staff questions in the shop, and which lentil belongs in which pot is a good one to ask.

Sources & Further Reading

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