Andalusia in the Pantry: The Region's Jars and How to Cook Them
Among the foods Andalusia protects by name, four keep well in a pantry: vinegar from the sherry towns of Cádiz, Gordal olives from Seville province, acorn-fed ham cured in the Huelva sierra and salt-cured tuna made on the Cádiz coast. Olive oil from the inland groves is the fat under all four, and two more from next door, pimentón and saffron, belong in its pantry too. The table below sets the seven side by side, and the three dishes at the end use several at once.
The seven, in one table
| Jar | Where it comes from | What defines it | What it does in a dish | First dish to make |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Extra virgin olive oil | Jaén, Córdoba, Granada, Málaga and Seville provinces | Andalusia holds about 60 percent of Spain's olive groves and 82 percent of its oil | The fat under everything; fruit, grass and a peppery finish | Salmorejo |
| Vinagre de Jerez | The sherry district: Jerez de la Frontera, El Puerto de Santa María, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Trebujena and five other towns, one of them (Lebrija) in Seville province | Aged in ex-wine casks, usually by solera; average age at least six months, Reserva two years, Gran Reserva ten; at least 70 g/L acidity (60 for PX and Moscatel, 80 for Gran Reserva) | Acid with wood, nut and dried-fruit depth | Gazpacho |
| Gordal olives | Seville province | IGP: grown in Seville province; traditionally hand-picked; lye-treated, washed and brine-fermented | Salt, crunch and a clean lactic sourness | Olives dressed with garlic, herbs and vinegar |
| Jamón ibérico, DOP Jabugo | Raised in dehesas of Andalusia and Extremadura; cured in the Sierra de Huelva | 100 percent Ibérico pigs, fed on acorns in the montanera from October 1 to March 31, at least 14 months old | Salt, sweet fat and cured depth | On top of salmorejo |
| Mojama de Barbate | Made in Barbate and Vejer de la Frontera, Cádiz | IGP: loins of wild bluefin or yellowfin tuna over 200 kg, salted and dried | Concentrated salt and sea, like a fish version of cured ham | Sliced thin with almonds and olive oil |
| Pimentón (a neighbor) | La Vera in Cáceres, Extremadura; also Murcia | DOP Pimentón de la Vera: peppers dried over holm-oak and/or oak smoke | Color, smoke and sweetness bloomed in oil | Espinacas con garbanzos |
| Saffron (a neighbor) | La Mancha | DOP Azafrán de la Mancha | Gold color and a honeyed bitterness | Rice with fish or shellfish |
Olive oil: the fat under everything
A Junta de Andalucía strategy paper puts the region at a little over 1.5 million hectares of olive groves, about 60 percent of Spain's olive area and 82 percent of Spain's olive oil, and calls it the most important olive oil region in the world. Jaén and Córdoba together hold 60 percent of the Andalusian groves. The olive oil buying guide covers grades, harvest dates and how to read a bottle; the guide to how olive oil is made at the mill covers the pressing. A robust, peppery oil suits the cold dishes below, where it is tasted raw.
Sherry vinegar: the region's acid
Vinagre de Jerez is made from wines of the Jerez and Manzanilla Sanlúcar de Barrameda designations and aged in wooden casks that previously held wine, by criaderas y solera or by single vintage (añada). Criaderas y solera is the same system that ages sherry. The single document says it evens out differences between vintages. It also sets the minimum tiers: six months' average age for Vinagre de Jerez, two years for Reserva, ten years for Gran Reserva. It allows Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel versions, where those sweet wines are added during ageing. These may have a lower minimum acidity, 60 g/L against 70 for the standard vinegar and 80 for Gran Reserva, and must carry at least 60 g/L of sugars from the added wine. The vinegar guide places sherry vinegar among the others, and the guide to balsamic, sherry and red wine vinegar covers which to reach for when. In cooking, the younger vinegar sharpens gazpacho and dressings. A Reserva is for finishing, a few drops on lentils, grilled fish or a pan sauce.
Gordal: the olive from Seville
The Gordal Sevillana is a green table olive, and its IGP, Aceituna Gordal de Sevilla, covers the whole of Seville province. It is large: the specification sets the size between 60/70 and 121/140 fruits per kilo, with an oval, asymmetric shape and a high ratio of flesh to pit. The olives are traditionally picked by hand, a technique called ordeño, "milking" the fruit off the branch, and the specification restricts production to Seville province because long transport would damage the fruit, which must reach the processor unbruised. The cure is a lye treatment, washing, and a lactic fermentation in brine. The finished olive is yellow-green, firm and crisp, without bitterness and with lactic notes. The Gordal is sold whole, pitted or stuffed. The olives guide explains the other cures, and the marinated olives recipe is the simplest way to dress them.
Jamón from the Huelva sierra
DOP Jabugo, renamed from Jamón de Huelva, covers ham and shoulder from pigs raised in the dehesas of Andalusia and Extremadura and cured in the Sierra de Huelva. Its specification admits only 100 percent Ibérico pigs, the native breed. They are fed during the montanera, the acorn season in the dehesa, set between October 1 and March 31, exclusively on acorns and other natural resources of the dehesa. The pigs must be at least 14 months old at slaughter. The jamón ibérico guide explains the breed and feed labels across Spain, and the guide to how jamón ibérico is cured follows a leg through the cellars. In the salmorejo below, the ham goes on at the end, in thin ribbons.
Mojama: tuna cured like ham
The Mojama de Barbate specification dates tuna salting on the Gulf of Cádiz to Phoenician times, with maze nets already in use. It credits the Arabs with refining the nets and naming the method almadraba, a maze of nets set near shore across the tuna's migration route. Mojama de Barbate is made from the loins of wild bluefin or yellowfin tuna over 200 kilos live weight, from any fishing ground, salted and then dried in air or in drying tunnels in Barbate or Vejer de la Frontera. The specification grades it Extra, from the inner loin against the spine, and Primera, from the loin beside it. Slice mojama as thin as you can and serve it with olive oil and toasted almonds, or over sliced tomatoes.
The two neighbors: pimentón and saffron
Neither is Andalusian by origin, but both come from regions next door and belong in the Andalusian pantry. Pimentón de la Vera comes from La Vera in Cáceres, where autumn rain at harvest pushed growers to dry peppers over holm-oak and oak smoke instead of in the sun, as Murcia traditionally did. The pimentón and smoked paprika guide covers the sweet, bittersweet and hot grades. Saffron's Spanish designation is Azafrán de la Mancha. At the stove, add pimentón to warm oil off the heat, since it scorches fast, and steep saffron in a little hot liquid before it goes into the pot.
Three dishes that use three or four jars at once
Salmorejo. Blend 1 kilo of ripe tomatoes with 200 grams of day-old white bread, one small clove of garlic and a good pinch of salt until smooth. With the blender running, pour in 150 ml of olive oil until the mixture thickens to a pale, dense cream, then add a teaspoon of sherry vinegar. Chill for two hours. Serve topped with chopped hard-boiled egg, a few ribbons of jamón and a thread of oil.
Espinacas con garbanzos. Fry a slice of bread and three sliced cloves of garlic in olive oil until golden, then pound them with a teaspoon of cumin, a teaspoon of sweet pimentón added off the heat, and a tablespoon of sherry vinegar. Wilt 500 grams of spinach in the same pan, add 400 grams of cooked chickpeas and the paste, loosen with some of the chickpea liquid and simmer ten minutes. The chickpeas and lentils guide covers cooking the chickpeas from dry.
Gazpacho with a mojama plate. The sherry vinegar gazpacho recipe makes the soup. Beside it, set a plate of thinly sliced mojama dressed with olive oil and toasted almonds, and a bowl of dressed Gordal olives. Four of the seven jars, and no stove.
The shop is at 263 Josephine Street in Cherry Creek, Denver. Products ship nationwide from theambrosianpantry.com.
Sources & Further Reading
- Junta de Andalucía: Vinagre de Jerez DOP single document
- Junta de Andalucía: Andalusian strategy for olive oil quality
- Junta de Andalucía: Aceituna Gordal de Sevilla IGP single document
- Junta de Andalucía: Mojama de Barbate IGP single document
- Spanish Ministry of Agriculture: DOP Jabugo specification amendment
- UK government register: Pimentón de la Vera DOP specification
- Spanish Ministry of Agriculture: 2020 report on DOP and IGP foods