Balsamic, Sherry or Red Wine Vinegar: Which for What
A recipe says vinegar and the cook reaches for the nearest bottle, which is not always the right one. Balsamic, sherry vinegar and red wine vinegar are all made from grapes and go by the same word, and they are three different tools. Balsamic is thick and sweet, closer to a sauce than a seasoning, and its sweetness and color suit strawberries and tomatoes. Sherry vinegar is dry, nutty and sharp, with a Spanish depth that suits lentils and roasted roots. Red wine vinegar is plain sourness, the one for butter lettuce, and its virtue is that it gets out of the way. The table comes first, then a dish-by-dish map and the arithmetic for swapping one for another.
The table
| Balsamic of Modena (IGP) | Sherry vinegar (Vinagre de Jerez DO) | Red wine vinegar | |
|---|---|---|---|
| What it is made from | Cooked or concentrated grape must (at least 20 percent) blended with wine vinegar (at least 10 percent); grapes of seven permitted varieties, Lambrusco and Trebbiano among them, made into vinegar within the provinces of Modena and Reggio Emilia | Wine, under the Jerez denomination of origin; Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel types for the sweet styles | Wine, with no grape or region set by the regulations |
| How it is made | Blended, then held in wooden vessels for at least 60 days; caramel permitted up to 2 percent for color | Wine turned to vinegar, then aged for at least six months, longer for Reserva and Gran Reserva | Wine fermented a second time by acetic acid bacteria, by slow surface fermentation (the Orléans, or traditional, process), the generator (German) process or the submerged process |
| Minimum acidity | 6 percent | 7 percent for the dry types; 8 percent for Gran Reserva; 6 percent for the sweet Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel types | 6 percent in the EU; 4 percent (FDA guidance) in the United States |
| Sugar | High: about 15 grams per 100 grams | Varies by type; the Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel types are the sweet styles | None in the USDA figures |
| Aging tiers | 60 days minimum; "invecchiato" after three years or more in wood | Vinagre de Jerez, six months; Reserva, two years; Gran Reserva, more than ten years | None regulated |
| Color and body | Dark brown to near black, glossy, slightly thick | Amber to mahogany, thin | Clear ruby, thin |
| Taste | Sweet first, sour second, cooked-grape and wood notes | Sharp, dry, nutty | Clean and sour, with the fruit of the wine |
| Its job | Finishing, glazing, dressing sturdy or sweet things | Seasoning soups, beans, braises and roasted vegetables; the vinegar that makes a dish taste finished | Vinaigrettes, marinades, pickles, anywhere acidity is wanted without a flavor of its own |
The grape and the method are the whole difference
Everything in the table follows from two facts: what went into the vat and what happened to it afterward. Balsamic of Modena starts with grape must that has been cooked or concentrated, which is why it is sweet before it is sour. The EU specification asks for at least 20 percent must and 10 percent wine vinegar, 60 days in wood and 6 percent acidity, and it permits up to 2 percent caramel for color. The traditional balsamic is registered separately as a protected designation of origin, and the guide to how traditional balsamic is made and the complete balsamic vinegar guide sort it out label by label. For this comparison, "balsamic" means the IGP and the condimenti, because that is the bottle that ends up in a dressing.
Sherry vinegar carries the Jerez denomination of origin, and its regulator recognizes Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel types alongside the dry ones. The age tiers run from six months for the base vinegar to two years for Reserva and more than ten for Gran Reserva. Its regulatory minimum acidity, 7 percent for the dry types and 8 for Gran Reserva, is higher than the 6 percent the EU requires of the other two, and it tastes sharp.
Red wine vinegar is wine that acetic acid bacteria have turned sour, and the regulation stops there: 6 percent acidity in the EU, and US FDA guidance expects at least 4 percent for vinegar sold in the United States. Like other vinegars, red wine vinegar can be made by slow surface fermentation (the Orléans, or traditional, process), by the generator (German) process or by the submerged process. There is more on how vinegar is made in the complete vinegar guide. Whichever the method, the result is clean acidity, and that is the point.
Which for what, dish by dish
Butter lettuce, herbs, a simple green salad: red wine vinegar. The leaves are delicate and want sharpness without color or sugar. The vinaigrette ratio guide has the proportions for the dressing.
Bitter greens, roasted roots, a warm lentil salad: sherry vinegar. Radicchio, endive, roasted carrots and cooked lentils all have enough flavor of their own to meet a nutty, sharp vinegar and be improved by it.
Tomatoes and mozzarella, grilled peaches, strawberries, a wedge of Parmigiano: balsamic, and the older and thicker the bottle, the less of it goes on. Acetaia Malpighi Saporoso, a six-year balsamic dressing (shop Malpighi Saporoso), and Cavalli Riserva Nando (shop Cavalli Riserva Nando) are bottles to use by the drop as a finishing sauce, while a younger IGP is the one to whisk with oil into a dressing.
Gazpacho, salmorejo, ajo blanco, escabeche: sherry vinegar. The Consejo Regulador lists all four among the uses for Vinagre de Jerez: escabeches for the base vinegar, gazpacho and ajoblanco for Reserva, salmorejo for Gran Reserva. A sharp, dry acidity suits cold tomato, bread and almond.
Beans and braises at the end of cooking: sherry or red wine vinegar. A spoonful stirred into beans or a long-cooked stew just before serving sharpens the whole pot, and the guide to acid in cooking makes the case for the habit. Sherry vinegar adds a nutty note along with the acidity; red wine vinegar adds the acidity alone.
Deglazing a pan for a sauce: red wine or sherry vinegar. Balsamic works too and reduces quickly to a sweet glaze, which suits a pan sauce meant to be sweet-sour, as on a pork chop with figs.
Marinades for beef or lamb: red wine vinegar. A marinade headed for the grill wants acidity and a neutral flavor without much sugar, and USDA figures put balsamic at about 15 percent sugar by weight.
Quick pickles, pickled onions: red wine vinegar. It keeps the brine clear and sour, with no sugar of its own.
Glazing roasted vegetables, drizzling over risotto or a steak: balsamic, reduced or aged. This is the job a syrupy, sweet-sour vinegar is built for.
The substitution, with the sugar arithmetic
Sherry and red wine vinegar swap for each other one to one in either direction. Red wine in place of sherry loses the nutty note, and sherry in place of red wine brings that note to a delicate salad; both swaps work. Balsamic works differently, because it is a sweetener as well as an acid. USDA data puts balsamic at about 15 grams of sugar per 100 grams and red wine vinegar at none; a tablespoon of balsamic weighs about 16 grams, so it carries about 2.4 grams of sugar, a little over half a teaspoon. The working rule: one tablespoon of balsamic is one tablespoon of red wine or sherry vinegar plus half a teaspoon of sugar or honey, and that gets the sweet-sour balance close without the color or the body.
Going the other way, balsamic in place of red wine or sherry vinegar in a dressing works one to one if the added sweetener in the recipe is cut, and the dressing will be darker. The guide to pantry substitutions has the wider set of acids, including lemon and cider, for when none of the three is on hand.
Which to buy, if only one
For the widest range of cooked dishes, sherry vinegar. A single Reserva sherry vinegar covers dressings for anything with backbone, pots of beans, soups that taste flat, and the two cold soups the Consejo Regulador pairs it with, gazpacho and ajoblanco. For pickles, marinades and plain salads, red wine vinegar. Balsamic is the one to match to the job: a young IGP is a dressing base, whisked with oil, and an aged condimento is a finishing sauce used by the drop. The balsamic vinegar storage guide covers keeping a bottle once it is open.
Sources & Further Reading
- Commission Regulation (EC) No 583/2009: registration of Aceto Balsamico di Modena (PGI), product specification
- Council Regulation (EC) No 813/2000: registration of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena and di Reggio Emilia (PDO)
- Consorzio Tutela Aceto Balsamico di Modena
- Consejo Regulador de la Denominación de Origen Vinagre de Jerez
- Regulation (EU) No 1308/2013, Annex VII, Part II: definition of wine vinegar
- US FDA Compliance Policy Guide Sec. 525.825: Vinegar, Definitions
- Gomes et al., Acetic Acid Bacteria in the Food Industry: Systematics, Characteristics and Applications, Food Technology and Biotechnology, 2018
- USDA FoodData Central: Vinegar, balsamic (FDC ID 172241)
- USDA FoodData Central: Vinegar, red wine (FDC ID 172240)
- The Pantry Dispatch: Vinegar, The Complete Guide
- The Pantry Dispatch: Balsamic Vinegar, The Complete Guide