Warm Marinated Olives with Orange, Fennel and Chile
A bowl of olives straight from the jar is a snack. The same olives after half an hour in warm olive oil with sliced garlic, cracked fennel seed, strips of orange peel, chile and rosemary are the first thing on the table at a good aperitivo, and the smell of orange and fennel reaches the guests before the bowl does.
The method is short. The aromatics go into the oil cold and warm slowly over low heat, so the garlic turns sweet and never brown. The chile and herbs go in after the pan comes off the heat, so they bloom in the leftover heat without scorching, the same principle as in the guide to blooming spices in oil. The warm oil goes over olives at room temperature, and thirty minutes later the fennel and peel have soaked into them. Any olive works, though a mix of colors and textures looks best, and the olives guide covers how each cure tastes. The catch is the fresh garlic, which limits leftovers to four days in the fridge.
Ingredients, for six as a snack
- 2 cups (about 300 g) mixed unpitted olives, drained: a buttery green such as Castelvetrano, a winey purple-black such as Kalamata, and something small and dark such as Niçoise
- 1/2 cup (120 ml) extra virgin olive oil, a fruity one such as the Capezzana (shop Capezzana), because it becomes the dressing and the dip for the bread
- 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
- 1 teaspoon fennel seed, lightly crushed under a knife or in a mortar
- 3 wide strips orange peel and 1 strip lemon peel, taken with a vegetable peeler, white pith trimmed
- 1/2 teaspoon chile flakes, such as silk chili flakes (shop silk chili flakes) for fruit and gentle heat
- 2 sprigs rosemary or 4 sprigs thyme
- 1 bay leaf (optional)
- 1 tablespoon fresh orange juice or sherry vinegar
Method
- Bring the olives to room temperature. Drain them, pat them dry with a towel, and put them in a heatproof bowl. Cold olives chill the oil and take the flavor more slowly. Very salty brine-cured olives can be rinsed first and dried well.
- Warm the aromatics, starting cold. Put the oil, garlic, crushed fennel seed and citrus peel in a small saucepan and set it over low heat. Warm for three to four minutes, swirling now and then, until the garlic sizzles gently, turns translucent and smells sweet. It should stay pale. The moment it starts to color at the edges, take the pan off the heat.
- Bloom the chile and herbs off the heat. With the pan off the burner, stir in the chile flakes, rosemary or thyme and the bay leaf. The oil is hot enough to bring out their aroma in about a minute and cool enough not to burn them.
- Dress the olives. Pour the warm oil and everything in it over the olives, add the orange juice or vinegar, and toss until every olive is coated.
- Wait. Leave them for thirty minutes, tossing once. Serve warm or at room temperature, with bread for the oil and a small empty dish for the pits.
- Store the leftovers cold, and not for long. Cover and refrigerate, and eat them within four days. Fresh garlic in oil must be kept cold and used within that window. The oil will cloud and firm up in the fridge. Let the bowl sit out for twenty to thirty minutes and it turns liquid again.
Why it went wrong
| Symptom | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Bitter, acrid oil | The garlic or chile browned | Start the garlic in cold oil over low heat and pull the pan the moment it colors; add chile only off the heat |
| Olives taste only of brine | They went in cold, or they were served too soon | Bring them to room temperature first and give them the full thirty minutes |
| Too salty | A heavily brined olive and nothing sharp to balance it | Rinse and dry the olives before dressing; add the orange juice or vinegar |
| Oil cloudy or solid from the fridge | Olive oil clouds and firms at refrigerator temperature | Let it stand 20 to 30 minutes; it goes clear and liquid again, and nothing is wrong with it |
| Flat, one-note | Whole fennel seed, or peel with the pith left on | Crush the seed so it releases its aroma; peel thin and trim the white pith, which is bitter |
Notes and variations
The oil is half the dish. The olives disappear first and the oil stays behind, so use one worth eating on bread. The olive oil buying guide covers how to choose one. Mop it up with bread, or spoon it over white beans the next day, inside the same four-day window.
The chile can be anything from mild and fruity to properly hot, and chipotle flakes (shop chipotle flakes) give the bowl a deeper, smokier heat.
Other herbs: dried oregano buds (shop dried oregano buds) or dried rosemary (shop dried rosemary) can stand in for fresh, a pinch added with the chile. Capers: a spoonful of capers in olive oil (shop capers in olive oil) tossed in at the end adds a sharper, saltier note.
For the martini crowd, leave out the fennel and orange and use lemon peel and thyme alone, a cleaner bowl that sits well next to the drinks in The Martini Hour.
In Denver, nothing in this recipe boils, so the lower boiling point covered in the altitude guide does not apply. The color of the garlic is the timer.
The oil, fennel seed, chile flakes and herbs are at 263 Josephine Street in Cherry Creek, Denver, and ship nationwide from theambrosianpantry.com. Visitors can ask staff in the shop which olives to mix.
Sources & Further Reading
- National Center for Home Food Preservation: Freezing Garlic-in-Oil
- Penn State Extension: How to Safely Make Infused Oils
- North American Olive Oil Association: Should Olive Oil Be Stored in the Refrigerator?
- The Pantry Dispatch: Olives, The Complete Guide
- The Pantry Dispatch: Toasting Spices and Blooming Them in Oil