Yuzu Kosho Guide: Japan's Citrus Chile Paste and How to Use It

Yuzu kosho is a paste made from three things: the peel of the yuzu, a fragrant Japanese citrus fruit, fresh chile peppers and salt. The three are chopped or ground fine, worked together and left to age until they become one seasoning. A dab the size of a pea brings heat, salt and a strong citrus perfume all at once, which is why Japanese cooks put it on the table beside hot pots, noodles and grilled chicken the way an American table holds a bottle of hot sauce. This guide covers what goes into the jar, why a chile paste is named after pepper, how green and red versions differ, how much to use, and sudachi, the small green citrus that belongs beside it.

A few terms first. The peel of a citrus fruit has two layers: the thin, colored outer skin, called the zest, which holds the fragrant oils, and the white, spongy layer under it, called the pith. A condiment is a seasoning added at the table or at the end of cooking, in small amounts. Aging (in Japanese, jukusei) means leaving a food to rest for a period so its flavors change and blend. Umami is the savory taste of broth, soy sauce, aged cheese and seaweed.

1. What goes in the jar

Two Japanese reference works published on Kotobank, the Japanese online encyclopedia service, agree on the recipe. The Encyclopedia of Japanese Regional Brands and Specialty Products (Nichigai Associates) defines yuzu kosho as chile peppers and yuzu peel, finely chopped, rubbed with salt and aged. Kodansha's Dictionary of Japanese Regional Cooking describes the same three ingredients, with the chopped peel and chiles ground together with salt.

The peel, not the juice, is the point. The University of California, Riverside's Citrus Variety Collection, a living library of citrus trees kept for research, notes that yuzu is commonly used in cooking because its rind is very fragrant. JETRO, the Japan External Trade Organization, which promotes Japanese trade, says the peel contains high levels of aroma compounds and can be finely grated over raw or grilled fish. Yuzu kosho captures that peel in a paste: the salt seasons it, and the result is thick enough to sit on a spoon rather than pour like a sauce.

Recipes vary from maker to maker. Yakami Orchard's green yuzu kosho (shop Yakami Orchard yuzu kosho) combines fresh yuzu zest, fresh chiles and sea salt with kombu, a dried kelp used in Japanese cooking, and the product page describes the flavor as bright and spicy with a subtle umami finish.

2. Why a chile paste is called pepper

In standard Japanese, kosho means pepper, the spice ground in a pepper mill. Yuzu kosho has no black pepper in it. Nichigai's encyclopedia explains the name: in parts of Kyushu, Japan's third-largest island, in the south of the country, chile peppers are called kosho. The same encyclopedia files yuzu kosho as a regional specialty of Oita Prefecture, one of the prefectures of Kyushu, and records that its origin is said to be the city of Hita, in Oita. Kodansha's dictionary calls it a specialty of Kyushu, and of Oita above all. The paste also goes by a second reading, yuzugosho.

The largest yuzu harvests come from outside Kyushu. JETRO puts Japan's yuzu production at about 27,000 tons a year, and, citing a 2016 survey by Japan's Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, gives Kochi Prefecture about 52 percent of it, with Tokushima and Ehime Prefectures next at 13 and 11 percent. None of the three is on Kyushu. Yuzu kosho is the Kyushu way of using the fruit.

3. Green and red

The color of yuzu kosho comes from its chiles. Kodansha's dictionary says the green version, made with green chiles, is the most common, and that yellow and red versions are made with ripe chiles. A chile, like a tomato, starts green and turns red or yellow as it ripens.

Because green is the common form, green yuzu kosho is the version most recipes mean when they simply say yuzu kosho, and it is the place to start. Red and yellow yuzu kosho are built from the same three parts, peel, chile and salt, with the chiles picked later, so they can go to the same dishes; their warmer color stands out on pale food such as white fish, tofu or a bowl of clear broth. The choice between them is a matter of the chile's stage of ripeness and the look of the plate, not of a different condiment.

4. How much to use

Yuzu kosho is a concentrate. It is salty because salt is one of its three ingredients, hot because of the chiles and strongly aromatic because of the peel, so a little reaches a long way. A practical starting point:

  • On a single bite of grilled meat, fish or a dumpling, a dab the size of a grain of rice to a pea, set on top rather than spread.
  • In a bowl of soup or noodles, about 1/4 teaspoon, stirred into a spoonful of the hot broth first so it disperses instead of sitting in one fiery lump.
  • In a dressing or marinade for two to four people, 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon. The yuzu vinaigrette recipe uses 1/4 teaspoon in a jar of about 2/3 cup and cuts the soy sauce at the same time, since the paste brings its own salt.

That last point is the rule that matters most. Yuzu kosho is a source of salt as well as heat, so when it goes into a dish, the salt or soy sauce comes down by a little. The salt, acid, fat and heat guide shows how one jar can do more than one of those jobs at once.

5. Where it goes

The Japanese reference works list the traditional places. Nichigai names hot pot dishes, sashimi (sliced raw fish), local chicken, udon (thick wheat noodles) and yudofu (tofu simmered in a pot of hot kombu broth). Kodansha adds mizutaki, a hot pot of chicken simmered in broth, along with yakitori (skewers of grilled chicken) and gyoza (pan-fried dumplings), with the paste used as a yakumi, the Japanese term for a small sharp garnish added at the table, such as grated ginger or sliced scallion. Kodansha also lists it as a seasoning for soups.

Those uses group into three families, and each translates easily to a Western kitchen.

Grilled and roasted meat. Chicken is the classic match: a dab on each piece of yakitori, or a thin layer on chicken thighs before they go under the broiler. Yakami Orchard suggests it as a rub on meat and poultry. Steak, pork chops and lamb take it the same way, as the bright, hot counterpoint to rich, browned fat.

Broth, soup and noodles. Yuzu kosho lifts clear broths, where its citrus aroma has room to show. A little stirred into a bowl of udon, a chicken soup or a bowl of ramen does the work of both a squeeze of citrus and a spoonful of chile oil. The ramen broth guide explains how the broths are built.

Raw fish, dressings and eggs. On sashimi or a raw scallop, a tiny dot is enough. Whisked into a dressing, it adds heat and a second layer of yuzu; the vinaigrette ratio guide gives the oil and acid proportions to build on. Yakami Orchard also suggests it with sushi, in marinades, salad dressings, soups and eggs, and tossed with pasta. Mixed into mayonnaise, it becomes a quick dip for fried food or a spread for a sandwich.

6. Sudachi, the other green citrus

Yuzu is not the only sour citrus in a Japanese kitchen. Sudachi (Citrus sudachi) is a small, round, green fruit that, according to UC Riverside's Citrus Variety Collection, arose as a chance seedling in Tokushima Prefecture, on the island of Shikoku. The collection's own measurements put the average fruit at about 3.8 centimeters (1.5 inches) wide and 27 grams (about one ounce), smaller than a yuzu. Its juice makes up a higher share of the fruit than in yuzu (34.4 percent against 18 percent), and it is slightly more acidic, at an average of 5 percent citric acid, the main acid in lemons. The young fruits are used in cooking while still green.

The two fruits are cousins. UC Riverside's records describe yuzu as thought to be a hybrid of the Ichang papeda, another citrus species, and the satsuma mandarin, and sudachi as thought to be a hybrid of the Ichang papeda and a mandarin. Where yuzu is prized for its peel, sudachi is mainly used for its juice. Heibonsha's World Encyclopedia, on Kotobank, lists sudachi, along with the bitter orange daidai, among the citrus juices mixed with vinegar to make ponzu, the sour citrus seasoning used with hot pots.

Yakami Orchard's sudachi juice (shop Yakami Orchard sudachi juice) is a niban shibori, or second pressing of the fruit, and the product page describes its flavor as tart, floral and lime-like, with notes of white pepper and cumin, and natural pulp that tends to float to the top. Its yuzu juice (shop Yakami Orchard yuzu juice) is a first pressing that uses the whole fruit. Either juice and the paste make a natural pair: the paste brings heat, salt and peel, and the juice brings sourness, so a few drops of juice over a piece of grilled fish finished with yuzu kosho gives the full citrus range in one bite.

7. Four citrus seasonings side by side

Form Made from What it adds Starting amount First uses
Green yuzu kosho Yuzu peel, green chiles, salt Heat, salt, citrus aroma; green color A pea-sized dab per serving Yakitori, hot pot, udon, sashimi, dressings
Red or yellow yuzu kosho Yuzu peel, ripe chiles, salt Heat, salt, citrus aroma; red or yellow color A pea-sized dab per serving The same dishes, and pale food where its color shows
Yuzu juice Pressed yuzu Sourness and a strong citrus aroma, no salt or heat 1 to 2 teaspoons per serving Ponzu, vinaigrettes, raw fish, drinks
Sudachi juice Pressed sudachi Sourness from a fruit slightly more acidic than yuzu, no salt or heat 1 to 2 teaspoons per serving Grilled fish, ponzu, dressings, drinks

The paste and the juices are not substitutes for one another. Yuzu kosho brings the heat and salt a juice lacks, and a juice brings the sourness the paste only hints at. A kitchen with one of each covers the whole range.

8. Yuzu kosho with the rest of the shelf

Yuzu kosho sits in a small family of condiments that join chile and citrus. The Japanese-style Kanzuri chili sauce (shop Kanzuri yuzu chili sauce) combines pickled chile mash, black garlic and yuzu zest with shio koji, a salty ferment of rice, salt and water, in a squeeze bottle, a looser, sauce-style member of the family. Yuzu kosho is the thick paste, built on peel, chile and salt. The hot sauce guide covers the wider world of chile condiments, the yuzu guide follows the fruit through its other forms, and the Yugeta shoyu producer guide explains the soy sauce that often shares the table with it.

The rest of the maker's range is in one place (shop Yakami Orchard), and the wider shelf of cooking sauces and pastes sits beside it (shop cooking sauces). The shop is at 263 Josephine Street in Cherry Creek, Denver, where visitors can ask staff questions, and orders from theambrosianpantry.com ship within the continental U.S.

Yuzu kosho exists because the most fragrant part of the yuzu is its peel. Kyushu cooks took that peel, gave it chile for heat and salt for seasoning, and aged the three into one paste, and the result does in a fingertip what a lemon wedge, a pinch of salt and a shake of chile flakes do in three moves. That economy is the reason to keep a jar open: it is the fastest way to make a plain dish taste finished.

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