The Housewarming Pantry: A Gift Guide for a New Kitchen
The Emily Post Institute is plain that a housewarming gift is optional. "The housewarming party's point is to warm the house with the presence of people you know and your new neighbors," its advice reads. When the Institute does suggest gifts, it lists dish towels, glasses, a houseplant and "a great olive oil or preserves." This box starts with that olive oil and adds the three things that turn it into dinner: a salt, a vinegar and a bag of spaghetti. With a stove, a pot, these four and a head of garlic, a new kitchen can cook on the first night, before the boxes are unpacked. None of the four needs a refrigerator, and each keeps in a cool, dry cupboard.
Why these four
Each one does a job the other three cannot. Oil is the fat that starts the pan and finishes the plate. Salt seasons, and a flaky salt adds crunch at the table. Vinegar brightens a salad or a pan of onions. Pasta is the starch that makes the other three into a meal. Together they cover the basics of a first-week dinner, and no jar repeats another. For a household ready to fill a whole shelf, the starter pantry guide has the longer list. This version fits in one crate.
The oil: Capezzana, from Carmignano
Tenuta di Capezzana is in Carmignano, in the Tuscan province of Prato, and its age is on record. A parchment in the State Archive of Florence, dated 804, shows that olives and vines were already grown at Capezzana for oil and wine. Count Alessandro Contini Bonacossi and his wife Vittoria bought the property in the 1920s and later joined three neighboring farms to it. Vittorio Contini Bonacossi introduced organic cultivation, and the fourth and fifth generations of the family run the estate today. Its extra virgin olive oil comes in a 500 ml bottle (shop Capezzana extra virgin olive oil).
Olive oil is the jar in the box to use up. The California Olive Oil Council says extra virgin oil is best within 18 to 24 months of harvest and, once opened, within three to six months. It should be kept in a cool, dark cabinet away from the stove. At a tablespoon a night, a 500 ml bottle covers about 33 dinners, which a kitchen cooking five nights a week finishes in under seven weeks, well inside that window. The olive oil buying guide explains harvest dates and labels.
The salt: Maldon, from the Blackwater estuary
The Osborne family business has made salt in Maldon, on the Essex coast, since 1882. It began with James Osborne and his son Cyril and is now in its fourth generation. The salt comes from the tidal water of the Blackwater estuary, and it is known for its pyramid-shaped flakes. The company's advice on using it is short: pinch it between finger and thumb and crumble it over food, at any point in the cooking. It recommends keeping the salt somewhere cool and dry and names a salt pig on the counter as the ideal container. The 8.5-ounce box is the one to give (shop Maldon Sea Salt).
For salting the pasta water, the kitchen will want a fine salt as well, such as La Baleine's Mediterranean sea salt (shop La Baleine fine sea salt). The salt guide explains how flaky and fine salts are used, and the Maldon producer guide tells the company's story.
The vinegar: Giusti, from Modena
Giusti's own history records that in 1605 Giuseppe and Francesco Maria Giusti were entered in the Duke of Modena's ledger of local businesses. By the same account, the family's first rows of wooden barrels were in the attic of its house on via Farini, and the house now counts seventeen generations. Giusti calls its 2 Gold Medals Balsamic Vinegar of Modena fresh and fruity, medium in density, with notes of mature fruit, licorice and black pepper (shop Giusti 2 Gold Medals balsamic). Giusti suggests it for cooking as well as finishing: in vinaigrettes, marinades and dressings, simmered into caramelized onions and sauces, and over raw or grilled vegetables. That range is why it belongs in a first kitchen.
It will also outlast the next move. The Vinegar Institute calls vinegar's shelf life "almost indefinite" because its acidity preserves it, and it needs no refrigeration. A haze or sediment that forms over time is, in the Institute's words, "only an aesthetic change." The vinegar guide covers the other styles, and the Giuseppe Giusti producer guide tells the family's story.
The pasta: Rustichella d'Abruzzo, from Penne
According to the company, Rustichella d'Abruzzo was founded in 1924 in Penne, in Abruzzo. It began with Raffaele Sergiacomo, a miller, whose small pasta works was run by a relative the company calls Aunt Serafina. The works made pasta only in summer and dried it outdoors. Sergiacomo's son Gaetano turned it into an industrial pasta factory. Piero Peduzzi took over the company in 1981, and the company says it presses its pasta through bronze dies for a rough surface. The spaghetti in the brown bag is the shape to give, because the first dinner below calls for it (shop Rustichella spaghetti). Dried pasta is made to keep, and Italian law caps its moisture at 12.5 percent.
The Rustichella d'Abruzzo guide covers the range, the bronze-die pasta guide explains the rough surface, and the pasta shapes guide matches shapes to sauces.
The box at a glance
| Jar | Its job | First use | How it keeps |
|---|---|---|---|
| Capezzana extra virgin olive oil | Fat for the pan and the plate | Aglio e olio, night one | Best within 18 to 24 months of harvest; three to six months once opened; cool, dark cabinet |
| Maldon Sea Salt | Seasoning, and crunch at the table | Over the finished pasta, night one | Cool and dry, in a salt pig or the box |
| Giusti 2 Gold Medals balsamic | Acid for dressings, onions and vegetables | The first salad, night two | Almost indefinitely, with no refrigeration |
| Rustichella spaghetti | The starch that makes it a meal | Aglio e olio, night one | Dry goods: Italian law caps moisture at 12.5 percent |
The first week from four jars
The box is meant to be cooked from. Each dinner below draws on the jars plus a few fresh things from the store.
| Night | Dinner | From the box | From the store |
|---|---|---|---|
| One | Spaghetti aglio e olio | Spaghetti, oil, salt | Garlic, chile flakes, parsley |
| Two | Green salad with balsamic vinaigrette, and bread | Oil, vinegar, flaky salt | Lettuce, a loaf |
| Three | Roasted vegetables finished with balsamic and flaky salt | Oil, vinegar, salt | Whatever vegetables look good |
| Four | Spaghetti with balsamic caramelized onions | Spaghetti, oil, vinegar, salt | Onions, a wedge of hard cheese |
| Five | Eggs fried in olive oil on toast, with flaky salt | Oil, flaky salt | Eggs, the rest of the loaf |
The first night's dinner is the aglio e olio recipe, and the dried pasta cooking guide covers salting the water. The second night's dressing is in the vinaigrette ratio guide.
A new kitchen in Denver cooks a little differently. Colorado State University Extension gives the boiling point as 203°F at 5,000 feet, against 212°F at sea level, so boiled food cooks at a lower temperature and takes longer. At that altitude the spaghetti will need a little more than the time on the bag, so taste it to check. The Denver altitude cooking guide covers the rest.
Packing it
The four jars fit in a lidded crate, such as the 14-inch rustic farmhouse crate (shop the rustic wood crate). Dish towels are on the Emily Post Institute's list. Wrapped around the oil, one protects the glass and doubles as a second gift (shop the Arctic Tree tea towel). Add a card with the first night's recipe: spaghetti, garlic, oil, chile, salt. It tells the new household what the box is for.
A few smaller points
Is a housewarming gift expected? No. The Emily Post Institute says a gift is lovely but not required, and that hosts should not set up a registry or post a wish list. What if the new home belongs to a neighbor rather than a friend? The Institute suggests a welcome kit: the town paper, restaurant menus, transportation schedules and information on local parks. A bottle of good oil fits in alongside them. Should the olive oil go in the refrigerator? No. The California Olive Oil Council advises a cool, dark cabinet instead. What if the vinegar turns cloudy? The Vinegar Institute says haze and sediment are an aesthetic change, and the vinegar can still be used. What about a dinner host rather than a new home? The host gift guide matches gifts to hosts, and the Ambrosian Pantry gift guide covers other occasions.
The shop is at 263 Josephine Street in Cherry Creek, Denver, where visitors can ask staff questions, and products ship nationwide from theambrosianpantry.com.
Sources & Further Reading
- The Emily Post Institute: hostess and housewarming gifts
- Tenuta di Capezzana: history of the estate
- California Olive Oil Council: buying and storage tips
- Maldon Salt: a brief history
- Maldon Salt: our salt, storage and use
- Giusti: the family history since 1605
- Giusti: 2 Gold Medals Balsamic Vinegar of Modena
- The Vinegar Institute: frequently asked questions
- Pitti Taste: Rustichella d'Abruzzo company profile
- D.P.R. 187/2001: Italian rules for dried pasta
- Colorado State University Extension: high elevation food preparation