Maldon Sea Salt Guide: England's Pyramid Flake
By the company's own account, the saltworks at Maldon has made salt from the water of the Blackwater estuary in Essex since 1882. The product is a pyramid-shaped flake, not the fine salt that comes out of a shaker. The company is now in its fourth generation of Osborne management and holds a Royal Warrant as Purveyor of Sea Salt to His Majesty King Charles III. Its flake does its work at the table, on food that is already cooked.
The tide and the pan
The saltworks takes its water from the estuary at spring tides, gives it a basic filtering and boils it gently in large steel pans. The pyramid crystals that form are drawn out of the pans by hand. The company says its salt has been made with the same traditional artisan methods since 1882, and it credits the pyramid shape to the art of temperature and timing.
Four generations of Osbornes
The company's history puts James Osborne and his son Cyril at the start of the business in 1882. In the family's own account, the succession runs through four generations: James the great-grandfather, Cyril the grandfather, Clive the father, and Steve Osborne, who runs the company today.
What the Royal Warrant means
A Royal Warrant recognises a supplier to the Royal Household. It is granted to a named individual at the company, known as the Grantee. A company can apply only after supplying the Royal Household for at least five years out of seven, and a warrant is initially granted for up to five years. It can go unrenewed if the quality or supply of the product falls short, and it can be cancelled at any time.
Maldon was first granted a warrant about two years after Queen Elizabeth II visited the saltworks in 2010, and its current warrant is to King Charles III. A warrant holder may display the Royal Arms, under the Lord Chamberlain's rules on how it is shown.
A note on protected status
Maldon is not on the UK's register of protected geographical food and drink names: a search of the register for Maldon returns no names. A British sea salt that is on it is Anglesey Sea Salt / Halen Môn, from Wales. Halen Môn was granted Protected Designation of Origin at EU level in 2014 and retains that status under the UK's post-Brexit protected food name scheme.
A PDO is not owned by one business. Any producer who follows the registered specification, and is verified to do so, may use the name. The formal recognition Maldon does hold is its Royal Warrant, which is granted to a named person at one company.
The pyramid, on food
Maldon's job in a kitchen is finishing. It goes on top of something already cooked and about to be eaten. Kosher salt and Maldon are both sodium chloride, and the difference that matters is the shape of the crystal. In a pasta pot or a brine, where the salt dissolves, the shape does not register, so a kosher salt does that job. On top of a finished dish, the shape is the part the eater notices.
What a flake changes is the timing and the place of the salt. A ground salt on top of a roasted vegetable disperses into the surface moisture and reads as general savouriness. A flake sits on that surface as a discrete crystal, and the first bite crushes it, releasing a small, concentrated pulse of salt at the point of chewing. The rest of the mouthful carries on without it. That contrast is the difference between seasoning a dish and finishing it.
The flake belongs on food that is ready to eat. A sliced summer tomato, salted at the table so the juice does not weep before serving. Roast lamb or beef, rested and sliced, or a steak just off high heat. A tray of oven-roasted vegetables on its way out of the kitchen. Warm sourdough with butter, a buttered radish, a split soft-boiled egg. Dark chocolate and caramel, where the salt sits against the sugar.
How to taste Maldon
Pinch a flake between two fingertips and let it fall onto a small clean plate. Look at the pyramid shape. Then taste a single pyramid, chewed once: a small crack, a quick release of salt, a fade.
Next, try it on three foods in a row: a wedge of ripe tomato with no oil, a slice of just-buttered toast and a small square of dark chocolate. Sprinkle the flake generously and eat within thirty seconds, while it still has its structure.
The range beyond the flagship
The flagship is the standard pyramid flake, sold in cartons and in a larger commercial tub.
Smoked Maldon Sea Salt (shop Smoked Maldon Sea Salt) is the same flake, smoked over English oak. Maldon suggests it for barbecue rubs, grilled vegetables, seafood and chocolate desserts.
The flavoured range includes Garlic, Chilli and Pepper Sea Salt Flakes. The Merchants' range adds a Sicilian Fine Sea Salt, sold as selected by Maldon. It is a fine salt, so a recipe that asks for Maldon flakes means the pyramid flake.
How to buy and store
Maldon comes in an 8.5-ounce carton for daily kitchen use (shop the 8.5-ounce Maldon Sea Salt carton) and a 3.1-pound tub for restaurants and heavy home users (shop the 3.1-pound Maldon Sea Salt tub).
On its smoked flakes, Maldon's storage advice is a cool, dry place. Moisture is what blunts a flake, so a cupboard away from the stove and the kettle is a better home than the counter beside them.
Other British and American flakes
Cornish Sea Salt is another British producer, making its salt from Atlantic seawater on the Lizard Peninsula in Cornwall. Jacobsen Salt Co. draws seawater from Netarts Bay on the Oregon coast and makes a flake salt from it. Each is its own salt from its own water, and the most useful comparison at home is side by side on the same slice of tomato.
Where Maldon fits in a Denver kitchen
Water boils at about 203 degrees Fahrenheit at 5,000 feet, so candy and jam recipes that cook to a target temperature need that target lowered by the difference from sea level, per Colorado State University Extension's high-altitude guidance. A finishing salt sits outside that arithmetic, because it goes on after the cooking is done. Where it meets the altitude is the caramel it lands on: cook the caramel to the adjusted temperature, let it set, then add the flakes so they keep their shape.
Sustainability
Maldon says it aims to reduce carbon emissions in its core production processes and to reach net-zero emissions by 2050. The company also says its operations currently achieve zero waste to landfill, and that every Maldon box supports the World Land Trust and its work protecting threatened habitats and wildlife.
Maldon and its name, a timeline
- 1882: the year the company gives for the start of its business, under James Osborne and his son Cyril.
- 2010: Queen Elizabeth II visits the saltworks in Maldon.
- About 2012: Maldon is first granted a Royal Warrant.
- 15 January 2014: Anglesey Sea Salt / Halen Môn is registered as a PDO at EU level.
- 31 December 2020: Halen Môn's registration is carried into the UK scheme.
- Today: Steve Osborne runs the business in its fourth generation, its warrant is to King Charles III, and the UK register lists no Maldon name.
- 2050: the year Maldon gives for its net-zero aim.
Read together, the dates show two different kinds of recognition for a salt. A Royal Warrant is granted to a named person at a supplier, reviewed for renewal, and gives the right to display the Royal Arms. A registered name and specification belongs to no single business, and any verified producer may follow it.
Sources & Further Reading
- Maldon Salt Company: About Us (1882, the Osborne family, the Royal Warrant to King Charles III, and the 2050 net-zero aim)
- Maldon Salt Company: A Brief History of Maldon Salt (James and Cyril Osborne, the Blackwater estuary, the 2010 royal visit and the first warrant)
- Maldon Salt Company: Our Salt (the flavoured range and the Merchants' selections)
- Maldon Salt Company: Smoked Sea Salt Flakes (smoked over English oak, suggested uses and storage)
- Country Life: The secrets of Maldon salt (spring-tide water, filtering, steel pans and hand harvesting)
- The Royal Household: Royal Warrants (who may apply, how a warrant is granted, renewed and cancelled, and the Royal Arms)
- UK Government: register of protected geographical food and drink names, searched for Maldon (no entries)
- UK Government: register entry for Anglesey Sea Salt / Halen Môn, PDO, EU registration 15 January 2014
- UK Government: Protected geographical food and drink names, UK GI schemes (who may use a registered name)
- Jacobsen Salt Co.: About (Netarts Bay, Oregon, and its flake salt)
- Cornish Sea Salt Co.: Our Story (Atlantic seawater on the Lizard Peninsula)
- Colorado State University Extension: High Elevation Food Preparation Guide (boiling point at altitude and candy and jam temperatures)