The end of a dinner on a wooden table: a wedge of Parmigiano with dark drops of balsamic, a spoon of honey over toast, sardines on bread and a small dish of pale sugar pastilles by candlelight

The Pantry Host Gift: What to Bring, by Host

The Emily Post Institute lists wine, Champagne, chocolates, jams, jellies and spreads among good host gifts, and then adds the line that decides everything: "just don't expect your host to serve them; it's up to the host to decide." A host gift is not a contribution to the meal. It is something for later, and that one rule makes the case for a gift from the pantry. A jar of honey, a tin of fish, a small bottle of aged balsamic or a tin of pastilles asks nothing of the host tonight. It needs no vase, no corkscrew and no space in a full refrigerator. It goes into the cupboard and waits. What remains is matching the gift to the host.

The host who cooked all day: honey

This is the host with the braise that started at noon and the dessert made the night before. The wine is chosen and the menu is set, so a bottle brought to the door only adds to what has to be decided. The right gift here belongs to the morning after: a jar of honey for the toast and the tea the host makes once the dishes are done.

Honey also keeps. The University of Florida's extension service says it "can be stored indefinitely without refrigeration," and that only honey diluted with water is open to yeasts and other microorganisms. A jar that sets into crystals over the winter has not spoiled, and the same source says it re-liquefies in a pan of warm-to-the-touch water. A single-floral jar has a flavor of its own, such as the raw buckwheat honey from Jacobsen Salt Co. (shop Jacobsen buckwheat honey) or an orange blossom honey from Bee Squared Apiaries (shop Bee Squared orange blossom honey). The honey complete guide covers floral sources, and the guide to whether honey expires explains the crystals.

The aperitivo host: a tin of sardines

The aperitivo host does not cook dinner so much as set out a long run of small things: olives, bread, cheese, a spritz. For this host a tin of good fish is a useful gift, because it can go out that same evening with no work at all or sit in the cupboard until friends next arrive with an hour's notice. The guide to serving sardines straight from the tin shows how little a tin needs: bread, lemon, salt, perhaps a sliced shallot.

José Gourmet's tins are illustrated, which makes them easy to give. The Portuguese house was founded in 2008 by a pilot and a design professor then living in Macau, and each illustration is signed by one of the artists on its roster. Monocle reports that the roster began with twelve Portuguese children's illustrators and has grown to almost ninety. The sardines in extra virgin olive oil (shop José Gourmet sardines in olive oil) are the straightforward choice. The sardines in Azores butter (shop José Gourmet sardines in Azores butter) are the less expected one, and the José Gourmet sardines in Azores butter guide explains them. The José Gourmet producer guide tells the rest of the story.

The host who keeps a cheese drawer: aged balsamic

This host ends a dinner with a board rather than a cake and keeps a hunk of Parmigiano wrapped in the refrigerator at all times. An aged balsamic is the gift for that drawer. The consortium for Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena DOP suggests the 12-year vinegar as a finishing touch on aged cheeses and fresh fruit, and the 25-year beside a piece of Parmigiano Reggiano at the end of a meal.

The labels take a little decoding. Under the EU specification, Balsamic Vinegar of Modena IGP must spend at least 60 days in wood, and may be labeled aged, invecchiato, after at least three years. Giuseppe Giusti, a Modena house that dates its history to 1605, marks the tiers of its own range with medals, so the 8-year bottle carries two gold medals (shop Giusti 8-year balsamic) and the 15-year carries four (shop Giusti 15-year balsamic). Vinegar also keeps. The Vinegar Institute describes its shelf life as almost indefinite, with no need for refrigeration. The balsamic vinegar complete guide sorts DOP, IGP and condimento, and the Giuseppe Giusti producer guide covers the house.

The host known only a little: a tin of pastilles

A colleague's housewarming, a neighbor's holiday open house, the first dinner at a new friend's home. The gift should be small, pleasant and free of any suggestion that the guest is trying too hard. Pastilles fit a coat pocket and suit a crowded party.

Pastiglie Leone began in 1857, when Luigi Leone started making small, fragrant digestive pastilles at an osteria in Neive, in Piedmont, to finish the meal for the inn's regulars. The first flavors, by the company's account, were mint, cinnamon and clove. The rose tondini come in a 5.3-ounce box (shop Leone rose tondini), and the orange pastilles in a smaller box (shop Leone orange pastilles). Les Anis de Flavigny traces its candies to 1591 in the old abbey of Flavigny, where they are still made: a single anise seed is wrapped, over days, in fine layers of flavored syrup until it becomes a smooth white sweet. The rose version comes in the oval tin (shop Anis de Flavigny rose pastilles). The Pastiglie Leone producer guide and the Les Anis de Flavigny producer guide tell both histories, and the pastilles and hard candy guide covers the category.

The matching table

Host Gift Why it fits How it keeps The line at the door
Cooked all day A jar of single-floral honey Belongs to tomorrow's breakfast, not tonight's menu Indefinitely, unrefrigerated, if kept dry "This is for the morning."
Aperitivo and small plates A tin of sardines Can go out tonight with no work, or wait for next time Sealed, in the cupboard, to the date on the tin "Open it now or save it."
Keeps a cheese drawer A small bottle of aged balsamic A few drops change the board it already serves Almost indefinitely; no refrigerator needed "A few drops on the Parmigiano."
Known only a little A tin or box of pastilles Small and pocketable; Leone's were first made to finish a meal Dry sugar in a closed tin; follow the date on the tin "For after dinner, any dinner."

Every row obeys the same rule: nothing the host must serve, chill or arrange tonight. For a weekend host putting guests up for two or three nights, two rows combine well. Honey covers the breakfasts, and a tin of sardines covers the evening nobody wants to cook.

Handing it over

The gift goes to the host at the door, not onto the counter beside the cooling roast. Emily Post's advice that the host decides whether to serve a gift is easiest to honor out loud: one sentence saying the gift is for later takes the question off the host's evening. Flowers work on the same principle. The Institute notes that a bouquet is "best brought in a vase (or mason jar) when possible." A pantry gift needs no vase at all.

A few smaller points

Is a host gift required? Not for a large, formal dinner: the Emily Post Institute notes that gifts are not usually taken to those, especially when the guest does not know the host well. What about a household with a new baby? The honey is for the adults; the CDC advises never feeding honey to a child younger than one year. Should the honey go in the refrigerator? No need: the University of Florida says honey can be stored indefinitely without refrigeration, and that it crystallizes fastest at about 57°F. What else is appropriate? The Institute's list includes small entertaining items such as little bowls, cutting boards, platters and cocktail napkins, and the Ambrosian Pantry gift guide covers more occasions. For the evening itself, see the complete guide to hosting a dinner party.

The shop is at 263 Josephine Street in Cherry Creek, Denver, where visitors can ask staff questions, and products ship nationwide from theambrosianpantry.com.

Sources & Further Reading

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