Pomegranate Molasses Guide: How It Is Made and Where It Goes

Pomegranate molasses is pomegranate juice boiled down until most of its water is gone. What is left is a thick, dark red to brown syrup that tastes sweet and sour at the same moment, with the fruit still plain underneath. Despite the name, it is not sugarcane molasses; it starts as fruit juice. In Azerbaijan it is called narsharab, which AzerNews translates as pomegranate wine, though the sauce holds no alcohol. One spoonful brings what a squeeze of lemon and a pinch of sugar would bring together. Below: how the syrup is made, why the sour matters, and the dips, dressings, stews and glazes it belongs in.

A few terms first. The Levant is a historical name for the lands along the eastern Mediterranean, roughly modern Israel, the West Bank, the Gaza Strip, Jordan, Lebanon and Syria, according to Encyclopaedia Britannica. A reduction is a liquid simmered until part of its water has boiled away, which leaves its flavor, sugar and acid packed into less volume. Arils are the juicy red seed coats inside a pomegranate, the part people eat. Brix, written as degrees Brix, is the measure food scientists use for the dissolved solids in a juice, which are mostly sugar; a juice at 16 degrees Brix is roughly 16 percent dissolved solids by weight. A glaze is a sticky, shiny coating brushed onto food as it cooks.

1. The fruit behind the bottle

The pomegranate, Punica granatum, is considered native to Iran and the neighboring countries, and its cultivation long ago spread around the Mediterranean, according to Britannica. The fruit is about the size of a large orange, and inside the leathery skin it holds many thin, transparent arils of reddish, juicy pulp. Britannica notes that the juice is also the source of grenadine syrup, the sweet red cocktail syrup; pomegranate molasses is the same juice taken in the opposite direction, toward sour and savory.

Fresh juice is mostly water. A 2015 study in the journal Food Technology and Biotechnology, by Luana Fernandes and colleagues, followed the Mollar de Elche variety through ripening and measured its juice at 16 degrees Brix at the earliest stage tested and 18.6 at its highest. The same study measured the juice's pH between 4.38 and 4.58. (pH is the scale chemists use for acidity; 7 is neutral, and the lower the number, the more acidic.) For the syrup, cooks in Lebanon reach for a sharper fruit: the Food Heritage Foundation, a Beirut organization devoted to Lebanon's food traditions, says the molasses is made from sour pomegranates, gathered in October.

2. How it is made

The traditional method takes a pot, a fire and patience. The Food Heritage Foundation sets it out in steps: the pomegranates are seeded, the juice is pressed from the seeds, and the juice is brought to a boil over a medium fire, then simmered on lower heat and stirred every ten minutes. The molasses is ready when the juice has lost around 80 percent of its volume. The foundation describes the result as a thick, brown, sweet and tangy syrup, and calls the process a long one that needs patience.

The arithmetic explains the flavor. Boil away 80 percent of a juice's volume and everything that does not evaporate, the sugar, the fruit acids and the color, ends up in the fifth that remains, packed about five times tighter than in the juice. That is why a teaspoon of the syrup can season a whole bowl of dip, and why the sweetness never arrives alone: the sour is concentrated just as hard.

Heat matters as well as time. Sugar that is heated long enough starts to brown, or caramelize, which deepens its color and flavor; the Food Heritage Foundation's open-pot syrup comes out brown. Burlap & Barrel, the single-origin spice company founded in 2016 by Ethan Frisch and Ori Zohar, sources its pomegranate molasses from Urfa, in southeastern Turkey, through longtime partners there, and takes a different route. According to the company, the seeds are pressed and the juice is gradually concentrated in a low-temperature vacuum, which keeps the natural fruit sugars from caramelizing. The only ingredient listed is pomegranate juice (shop Burlap & Barrel Pomegranate Molasses).

The vacuum works because lower air pressure lowers the temperature at which water boils. Denver shows the effect on a small scale: at about a mile above sea level, water boils at roughly 202°F, about ten degrees below the sea-level figure, as the cooking at altitude guide explains. A vacuum pan pulls the pressure down much further, so the juice can give up its water without getting hot enough to brown. The two methods are two styles of the same syrup: the open pot is the traditional home method, and the vacuum is a way to concentrate the juice while keeping its sugars from caramelizing.

3. Sweet, sour and the label

Not every bottle is built the same way, and the ingredient list says which kind is in hand. Some contain pomegranate juice alone. Some are seasoned: AzerNews, writing about Azerbaijan's narsharab in 2019, described the juice boiled slowly for a few hours, with salt and spices such as pepper, coriander, bay leaf, cinnamon and basil added to enhance the taste. A drop tasted on a spoon before measuring shows which kind is in hand.

The sourness is useful because it behaves like any other acid in a dish: it brightens fat, cuts richness and wakes up flat flavors. The acid guide explains why adding more salt to a flat dish can leave it saltier and no better, and why acid is often what is missing. Pomegranate molasses brings that acid with its own sugar and a fruit flavor attached, which is why it sits closer to a condiment than to a vinegar. The wider family of sour bottles is covered in the vinegar guide.

4. Where it goes

Muhammara. Muhammara is a dip of roasted red peppers, walnuts and bread from Aleppo, in Syria, and its name means reddened in Arabic, according to the Food Heritage Foundation. Pomegranate molasses supplies the sour edge. The muhammara recipe uses two tablespoons for about two cups of dip, with more drawn across the top as a dark thread at the end, and balances it against the fruity heat of Aleppo pepper flakes (shop Villa Jerada Aleppo Chile Pepper Flakes). The finished dip should taste sweet, hot and sour, with none of the three winning.

Fattoush. Fattoush is the Lebanese salad of fresh greens and vegetables with a lemony dressing, served with baked or fried pita. The Food Heritage Foundation's dressing combines the juice of one lemon, olive oil, a tablespoon of sumac and a tablespoon of pomegranate molasses. Sumac is a sour spice made from the berries of the sumac plant. Burlap & Barrel calls it a classic Middle Eastern finishing spice and makes its cured version by packing fresh wild sumac berries in salt, which gives it a bright, sour, salty flavor (shop Burlap & Barrel Cured Sumac). The dressing stacks three sour notes, lemon, sumac and pomegranate, and the molasses adds the sweetness and body that hold them together. A vinaigrette is a dressing of oil whisked with something sour; the proportions that make one work are in the vinaigrette ratio guide, and pomegranate molasses can stand in for part of the vinegar in them.

Fesenjan. In Iran the great pomegranate dish is fesanjān, also called fesenjun: a khoresh, or Persian stew, of walnuts or almonds with poultry (usually duck) or small meatballs, in a pomegranate sauce or juice that turns it dark brown. The Encyclopaedia Iranica entry by Etrat Elahi records the cook's balancing act: if the pomegranate sauce is too sour, sugar and fried onions are added to sweeten it, and peeled pumpkin is sometimes added partly as a substitute for sugar. A cook making it today with pomegranate molasses can make the same adjustment, tasting and correcting the sweet against the sour as the walnuts thicken the pot.

Glazes and marinades. According to Burlap & Barrel, pomegranate molasses in Turkey is typically used in meat and grain dishes and as a glaze for proteins. The sugar in the syrup is what makes a glaze cling and shine, and it also means the glaze browns quickly, so it goes on in the last minutes of roasting or grilling, brushed over chicken, lamb or salmon. As a marinade, a spoonful whisked with olive oil, garlic and salt seasons meat with acid and sweetness before it cooks. AzerNews reported that in Azerbaijan narsharab is best combined with meat and fish.

Rice, vegetables and drinks. Burlap & Barrel also suggests drizzling the syrup over rice and meat dishes, whisking it into salad dressings and stirring it into warm drinks. A thread over roasted carrots, squash or eggplant with yogurt does the same job as it does on muhammara: a hit of sweet-sour on the last bite.

5. How much to use

Dish Amount given What it balances
Muhammara, about 2 cups (Pantry Kitchen recipe) 2 tablespoons, plus a thread to finish Sweet peppers, rich walnuts, Aleppo pepper heat
Muhammara (Food Heritage Foundation recipe) 2 teaspoons Same dip, a lighter hand
Fattoush dressing (Food Heritage Foundation) 1 tablespoon, with the juice of 1 lemon and 1 tablespoon sumac Lemon and sumac sourness, olive oil
Fesenjan (Encyclopaedia Iranica) Enough pomegranate to turn the stew dark brown; sugar or pumpkin if too sour Rich walnuts and poultry
Glaze for chicken, lamb or fish Brushed on in the last minutes of cooking Fat and char from the heat

The two muhammara recipes call for 2 teaspoons and 2 tablespoons of the same syrup, a threefold spread, so the right amount depends on the bottle and the cook. Start at the low end, taste, and add more a teaspoon at a time.

6. Substitutes

The closest substitute is homemade. Pure pomegranate juice, simmered in a wide pan and stirred until it has lost about 80 percent of its volume, follows the Food Heritage Foundation's method. In Denver the juice simmers at a lower temperature than at sea level, so the reduction takes its own time; judge it by the volume left and by the way it coats a spoon, not by the clock. It thickens further as it cools.

Without the juice, a dish can borrow the balance even if it cannot borrow the fruit. Lemon juice with a little honey gives sour and sweet together, and a pinch of sumac adds a fruity tartness. The result is a stand-in for the balance, not for the taste of pomegranate. When a dish needs adjusting after the fact, the guide to fixing a dish from the shelf lays out the order for correcting a dish: salt first, then acid and fat.

7. Storage

Burlap & Barrel's instruction is to store its pomegranate molasses in a cool place for ideal freshness. The syrup's thickness helps it keep. Sugar preserves food mainly by osmosis, pulling water out of reach of microbes, according to Mickey Parish, then chair of the nutrition and food science department at the University of Maryland, writing in Scientific American in 2006. He described it with a number called water activity, which tracks how much free water a food holds: most fresh foods sit at 0.99, and most bacteria stop growing at roughly 0.91. A juice boiled down to a fifth of its volume has far less free water left than the juice it started as. Where a bottle's label gives its own storage instructions, follow the label, and keep the cap clean so the syrup does not glue it shut.

8. Sour, held in sugar

Pomegranate molasses is not a sweetener that happens to be tart. It is a sour condiment that carries its own sugar, the reason it can finish a dip, dress a salad, deepen a stew or glaze a roast with a single spoon. Every use comes down to the balance a cook in Aleppo, Beirut or Iran is already tasting for: sweet against sour, with the fruit left standing between them. To shop the bottle alongside other sauces and pastes for the stove, browse the other cooking sauces collection.

The shop is at 263 Josephine Street in Cherry Creek, Denver, and products ship nationwide from theambrosianpantry.com.

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