Espinacas con Garbanzos: The Seville Stew That Teaches Pimentón
Espinacas con garbanzos is the stew Seville serves in every old tile-walled tapas bar, a dish with Moorish fingerprints all over it: chickpeas and spinach thickened with fried bread and garlic pounded to a paste with cumin and vinegar, the whole thing turned brick red and faintly campfire-scented by smoked pimentón. It is also the single best recipe for learning the spice, because nothing in the pan hides it. Pimentón de la Vera is dried slowly over oak smoke, which is where the flavor lives. That flavor is carried in compounds that dissolve in fat, not water; the spice only opens up when it meets warm oil, which is the whole argument of the guide to blooming spices in oil. But paprika is unusually rich in sugars, so in frying-hot oil it scorches from brick red to bitter brown in seconds. Hence the one rule this recipe exists to teach: warm the oil, pull the pan off the heat, then add the pimentón. Twenty seconds, and it goes in sweet, smoky and whole.
Ingredients
- 5 tablespoons (75 ml) extra virgin olive oil, divided
- 60 g (2 thick slices) day-old country bread, torn into rough cubes
- 4 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole
- 1 teaspoon ground cumin
- 2 teaspoons sweet smoked pimentón (dulce), plus a pinch of hot (picante) if you like
- 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar, plus a splash to finish
- 2 (400 g / 15 oz) cans chickpeas, drained, liquid reserved; or 3 cups home-cooked
- 450 g (1 lb) mature spinach, thick stems removed, washed
- Fine sea salt
Method
- Wilt the spinach. Put it in a large pot over medium heat with only the water clinging to its leaves, cover, and wilt 2 to 3 minutes. Drain in a colander, press lightly with the back of a spoon, and chop roughly. Wilting first and draining is what keeps the finished stew thick instead of watery.
- Fry the bread and garlic. In a wide skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of the oil over medium and fry the bread cubes and whole garlic cloves, turning, until deep gold on all sides, 4 to 5 minutes. Lift them out and leave the oil behind. This is the thickener; there is no flour and no cream anywhere in the dish.
- Make the majado. Mash the fried bread and garlic in a mortar, or pulse in a small processor, with the cumin, the vinegar and a splash of the reserved chickpea liquid, until you have a coarse, wet paste.
- Bloom the pimentón off the heat. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil to the skillet and warm it over medium heat for a minute. Pull the pan off the heat, add the pimentón, and stir for about 20 seconds; it will foam faintly and turn the oil a deep brick red. This is the step the whole recipe teaches. In oil hot enough to fry, paprika's sugars burn and the dish turns bitter; in warm oil off the flame, the fat-soluble flavor and color dissolve and nothing scorches.
- Simmer. Return the pan to medium heat and add the chickpeas, the bread paste and about a cup (250 ml) of the reserved chickpea liquid. Simmer gently, stirring now and then, about 10 minutes, until the liquid has thickened enough to coat a spoon. Add more liquid a splash at a time if it tightens too far.
- Finish. Fold in the spinach and simmer 3 to 4 minutes more so the flavors knit. Season with salt, add a last small splash of vinegar, and serve hot in shallow bowls with a thread of raw olive oil and, if you like, a few extra cubes of fried bread on top.
Why it went wrong
| Symptom | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Bitter, acrid, smells scorched | The pimentón hit frying-hot oil and its sugars burned | Warm oil, pan off the heat, 20 seconds. If it turns brown instead of brick red, wipe the pan and start the oil again; there is no rescuing burnt paprika |
| Dusty, raw, tastes like the jar smells | The pimentón never met warm fat; it was stirred into the liquid or sprinkled on at the end | Bloom it in the oil before the chickpeas go in; the flavor compounds dissolve in fat, not water |
| Soupy | Too much chickpea liquid, or the majado was skipped | The fried-bread paste is the thickener; simmer uncovered and let it do its work |
| Watery and thin at the end | Raw spinach went in wet and released its water into the finished stew | Wilt, drain and press the spinach first |
| Flat | Undersalted; no acid | Salt at the end and do not skip the finishing splash of vinegar; the dish needs its sharp edge |
| Chickpeas chalky | Home-cooked ones went in undercooked; Denver's 202°F simmer slows legumes | Cook dried chickpeas fully tender before they meet the pan, or use good canned ones |
Notes and variations
Which pimentón. The DOP spice from La Vera comes in three grades: dulce (sweet), agridulce (bittersweet) and picante (hot). Sweet is the one to learn on; a pinch of picante alongside it adds the heat, and the pair can stand in for half the bottles in the hot sauce guide. There is more on single-origin sourcing in the spice guide. The egg. A fried egg on top turns the tapa into dinner for two; some Seville bars serve it that way. In Denver, water simmers at about 202°F rather than 212, so dried chickpeas take noticeably longer to go fully tender; budget extra time or let canned ones sidestep the problem, per the altitude guide. The stew itself is altitude-proof.
Anyone unsure which grade to start with can ask the staff in the shop.
The chickpeas. Canned ones work well here and their liquid is an asset; the dried chickpeas and lentils guide covers when the dried ones repay the soak.
Sources & Further Reading
- Consejo Regulador DOP Pimentón de la Vera: production specification
- Harold McGee, On Food and Cooking, on paprika, capsaicin and carotenoid solubility
- Colorado State University Extension: High Elevation Food Preparation Guide
- The Pantry Dispatch: Toasting Spices and Blooming Them in Oil