A pressed round pan bagnat cut in half on parchment, layers of tuna, tomato, egg, olives and basil visible, the cut crumb stained with olive oil and tomato juice

Pan Bagnat: The Niçoise Sandwich That Improves Under a Weight

Pan bagnat is the salade niçoise packed into a round loaf and told to wait. The name means bathed bread in the Niçois dialect, and the bath is the whole method: the cut faces of the bread are rubbed with garlic and soaked with salted tomato juice, vinegar and olive oil, the filling goes in, and then the sandwich is wrapped, weighted and left alone until the crumb has drunk the dressing. The Nice tourist office publishes the traditional recipe, and its list is strict in the way only a simple dish can be: a round farmhouse loaf, tomatoes, spring onion, green pepper, radish, hard-boiled egg, tuna in olive oil, anchovy, Niçoise olives, basil, garlic, oil and a little vinegar, plus fava beans and artichoke in season. That is the entire dressing; there is no mayonnaise on the list. It is a dish built from the tinned-fish shelf, a natural companion to the anchovy guide and the complete guide to tinned tuna and ventresca, and the rare sandwich that is better two hours after it is made.

Ingredients, for four

  • 4 crusty round rolls, about 100 g each, or one 20 cm round country loaf
  • 3 ripe medium tomatoes, sliced 1 cm thick
  • 1 teaspoon fine sea salt, for the tomatoes
  • 2 eggs
  • 240 g tuna in olive oil (two 120 g tins), drained and flaked; ventresca if the day deserves it
  • 8 anchovy fillets, rinsed if salt-packed (optional, recommended)
  • 4 spring onions, thinly sliced
  • 1 small green bell pepper, cut into thin rings
  • 6 radishes, thinly sliced
  • 70 g (about 1/2 cup) Niçoise olives; warn the table if they still have pits
  • 12 basil leaves
  • 1 garlic clove, halved
  • 90 ml (6 tablespoons) extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • Optional, in season: a handful of raw young fava beans or thin slices of raw artichoke

Method

  1. Cook the eggs. Lower them into boiling water and cook 10 minutes; in Denver make it 11, because water boils at about 203°F at 5,000 feet and everything cooked in it goes a little slower. Move them straight to ice water, then peel and quarter. The ice water is not fussiness; an overcooked yolk grows a gray-green ring, and the fast chill prevents it.
  2. Salt the tomatoes. Slice them, salt them on both sides, and set them in a colander over a bowl for 15 minutes. The salt pulls their water out, and that pink, seasoned juice is the bathing liquid the sandwich is named for. Keep every drop.
  3. Prepare the bread. Split the rolls, leaving the base a little thicker than the cap, and pull out some of the crumb so there is room for the filling. Rub the cut faces with the garlic clove. Now bathe them: spoon the tomato juice over both faces, follow with the vinegar, and then half the olive oil. The bread should look stained, not soaked through.
  4. Layer. Tomatoes first, directly on the base. Then the green pepper, spring onions, radishes and fava beans if using; then the flaked tuna and the anchovy fillets; then the olives, the quartered eggs and the basil. Grind pepper over the top and finish with the remaining oil. Salt lightly if at all; the tomatoes, tuna, anchovies and olives carry plenty.
  5. Press. Close each sandwich, wrap it tightly in parchment or plastic, and set a weight on top: a cutting board with a heavy pan on it does the job. Leave it 30 minutes at minimum, up to 2 hours, turning once halfway so the juices travel both directions. This is the step that turns a stack of ingredients into pan bagnat.
  6. Serve. Unwrap, cut, and eat outdoors if the weather allows any argument for it. If the sandwiches are sitting out, eat them within two hours; past that, the eggs and fish belong in the refrigerator.

Why it went wrong

Symptom Cause Fix
Soggy, collapsing Bread too soft, too much liquid, or pressed too long Use a crusty roll or country loaf, never a soft bun; pull out more crumb; stop the press at two hours
Dry, tastes like a plain tuna sandwich The bath was skipped or the sandwich was eaten immediately Salt the tomatoes and use their juice, use the full oil, and give it the 30 minutes; the wait is the recipe
Gray-green ring on the yolk Eggs overcooked or cooled slowly Ten minutes in the water, then straight into ice water
Harsh and over-salty Salt-packed anchovies went in unrinsed, or extra salt on top of them Rinse and fillet salt-packed anchovies; taste before adding any finishing salt
Flat and watery Tomatoes unsalted, out of season, or sliced too thick Salt and drain the slices; in winter, use fewer, better tomatoes and lean harder on the anchovy and olives
A cracked tooth at the picnic The olives still had their pits Pit them before they go in, or say so before anyone bites

Notes and variations

The tuna is a third of the dish. This is a recipe with nowhere for a bad tin to hide, so use tuna packed in olive oil, and pour the tin's oil over the bread instead of discarding it; the complete guide to tinned tuna and ventresca covers which tins earn the spot, and ventresca, the belly cut, turns the sandwich into an occasion. Tuna, anchovy, or both: the traditional Nice recipe lists both, the tuna as the body and the anchovy as the seasoning, and the anchovy guide explains why two rinsed fillets read as depth rather than fish. The olives should be Niçoise or another small black olive with some bitterness left in it, per the olive guide; a mild pitted supermarket olive disappears entirely. The oil is the only fat in the sandwich, so use a bottle worth tasting, per the buying guide. In Denver, the eggs want the extra minute, and the dry air drying a loaf out faster is an argument for making these the day the loaf comes home; the altitude guide has the boiling-point arithmetic. For a crowd, make one large loaf instead of rolls, press it whole, and cut it into wedges like a cake.

The tuna, the anchovies, the olives and the olive oil are at 263 Josephine Street in Cherry Creek, Denver, and ship nationwide from theambrosianpantry.com. Pan bagnat is the picnic argument for keeping good tins on the shelf: the tins and the olives keep in the pantry for years, the rest is a quick shop for a loaf and produce, and the whole thing comes together in twenty-five minutes.

Sources & Further Reading

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