Fish Pâté Guide: How Tinned Pâtés Are Made and How to Serve Them
A fish pâté is cooked fish blended smooth with oil and seasoning, then sealed in a tin and heat-processed so it keeps in the cupboard and goes straight onto bread once opened. Whole sardines or fillets of mackerel still ask for a fork and a decision; a pâté has already been cooked, blended and seasoned. This guide follows the tin from cannery to table: how a Portuguese cannery makes a pâté, how pâté differs from rillettes, what smoke and spice change, and how to serve it, from a single slice of toast to a spread for a crowd. The complete guide to tinned fish maps the whole category; this is the pâté chapter.
A few terms first. Conservas is the Spanish and Portuguese word for preserved foods, used in English for the tinned fish of the Iberian tradition. A pâté is a smooth spread made by blending cooked meat or fish with fat and seasoning. An emulsion is a mixture of two things that do not normally combine, such as oil and water, beaten together until they hold as one smooth mass; mayonnaise is the familiar example. An autoclave, which canners also call a retort, is a sealed pressure vessel that heats closed tins well above the boiling point of water. Hors d'oeuvres are small savory bites served before a meal or at a party, usually eaten by hand.
What a fish pâté is
At its simplest a fish pâté is three things: cooked fish, fat, and seasoning, blended until smooth. In the Portuguese tradition the fat is usually olive oil. José Gourmet, the Lisbon conservas house founded by Adriano Ribeiro in 2008, describes its mackerel pâté as fresh blue mackerel blended into a fine paste with olive oil, sea salt and a few spices (shop José Gourmet mackerel pâté). On the maker's own page the fish is a peixe azul, a blue fish, the Portuguese name for edible sea or river fish with more than 2.5 percent fat. That fat content matters. Oily fish such as mackerel and sardines blend with olive oil into a spread that tastes rich on its own.
The fish changes the character of the spread. José Gourmet's sardine pâté is made from Atlantic and Mediterranean sardines (shop José Gourmet sardine pâté). Each of these pâtés comes in a 75 gram tin, about 2.6 ounces.
How a tinned pâté is made
A 2019 internship report at the Escola Superior de Biotecnologia of the Universidade Católica Portuguesa, written by Inês Filipa Vaz Flores at Conservas Portugal Norte, a cannery based in Matosinhos in northern Portugal, documents a working pâté line. It follows a codfish pâté from raw fish to finished tin, and the steps describe the shape of the process.
- Prepare the fish. The cod in that line is dried salt cod, so it is first soaked overnight in running water to remove excess salt.
- Cook it. The fish is cooked in a steam cooker at 90°C (194°F) for two minutes.
- Grind it. The cooked fish goes through a machine much like a meat mincer, and quickly, because the report notes that minced fish deteriorates faster than whole fillets.
- Mix it. The ingredients are weighed and blended in a mixer with rotating paddles. In the report's starting recipe, salt cod makes up about 56 percent of the mix and olive oil about 36 percent, with garlic, nutmeg and white pepper among the seasonings.
- Fill the tins. An automatic stainless steel doser fills each tin with about 75 grams of pâté.
- Seal and sterilize. Each tin is marked with a batch code and best-before date, sealed, and heated in a saturated-steam autoclave at 121°C (about 250°F) for 30 minutes.
- Cool and store. The tins are cooled and kept at room temperature, with a shelf life of five years.
A peer-reviewed study from Brazil, published in 2014 in the journal Food Science & Nutrition, describes the same logic for a pâté made from a freshwater catfish. There the recipe was 60 percent fish, 20 percent sunflower oil and about 17 percent water, homogenized before and after the oil went in until it formed an emulsion. The tins were sealed and autoclaved at 115°C (239°F) for 15 minutes. The researchers then tested for commercial sterility, the canning standard for a tin that will keep at room temperature, by holding sealed tins warm for up to ten days and checking that none swelled or leaked.
That final heat step is what separates a tinned pâté from one made in a home kitchen. The Portuguese report gives the cannery's general autoclave times as 40 to 110 minutes at 121°C, depending on the size of the tin, the type of fish and the sauce. For a look at the rest of a cannery's day, see the guide to how tinned sardines are made.
Pâté or rillettes
Pâté and rillettes are often set out side by side, and both are spreads, but they come from opposite ideas about texture.
Rillettes began as pork. The name comes from the old French rille, a piece of pork, and peasants in Touraine, the region around the French city of Tours, made them as early as the Middle Ages, according to the specification for Rillettes de Tours filed with France's national institute for origin and quality, the INAO. That specification spells out the method. The pork is cooked slowly in pork fat, between 65 and 95°C (about 150 to 200°F) for five and a half to twelve hours, until it turns into a confit, meat cooked soft in its own fat. The pieces must come apart through cooking alone, without being beaten or torn, and the finished rillettes show long, clearly visible fibers of meat, at least two centimeters (about three quarters of an inch) long. Rillettes are meant to be shredded and rustic.
A pâté goes the other way. The fish is ground and blended until the fibers disappear into a smooth, even paste, held together by the oil. Spread on bread, rillettes catch the light in strands; pâté lies flat and glossy.
Fish rillettes borrow the French method and shorten it. A tin of mackerel has already been cooked, so the fillets only need to be broken up with a fork and worked into softened butter with mustard and lemon. The mackerel rillettes recipe turns two tins into a jar with about ten minutes of work and mashes the fish with a fork instead of a food processor, because a processor would turn rillettes into pâté. The two belong on the same board: one smooth, one coarse, one ready from the tin, one made in minutes from a tin.
Smoked or plain
A smoked pâté starts from fish that has spent time in wood smoke before it is blended, so the smoke runs through every bite. Smoking comes in two kinds. Hot smoking cooks the fish as it smokes: the Pacific Northwest Extension guide to smoking fish, from Washington State University, Oregon State University and the University of Idaho, calls for heating the fish to an internal 150°F, preferably 160°F, and holding it there for at least 30 minutes. Cold smoking flavors fish below roughly 80 to 90°F without cooking it. Either way, a smoked pâté is still sealed in its tin and heat-processed like any other.
Ati Manel, a Portuguese conservas brand first founded in 1922 and revived by a great-grandson of the founder, builds its pâtés on smoked fish. Its smoked sardine pâté, paté de sardinha fumada on the Portuguese label, is made from sardines caught in the Atlantic and canned by hand in Matosinhos, Portugal, according to the product page (shop Ati Manel smoked sardine pâté). Its smoked mackerel pâté, paté de cavala fumada, follows the same idea with mackerel (shop Ati Manel smoked mackerel pâté), and its spiced smoked tuna pâté, atum fumado picante, adds heat to smoked tuna (shop Ati Manel spiced smoked tuna pâté). The product pages suggest pickled vegetables and crusty bread alongside.
Plain and smoked pâtés point in different directions in the kitchen. A plain pâté tastes of the fish and the olive oil, and it takes on whatever goes with it: lemon, herbs, a sharp pickle. A smoked pâté arrives seasoned and wants something cool, sour or starchy against it. The smoked fish in tins guide covers the rest of the smoked shelf.
Spiced pâtés
The third axis is heat. Piri-piri is a small, hot chili pepper used across the Portuguese kitchen. José Gourmet's spiced mackerel pâté adds piri-piri and red pepper to the mackerel, and the product page calls it slightly spicy and suggests a dash of lemon to calm the kick (shop José Gourmet spiced mackerel pâté). The maker describes the same pâté as creamy, with a gently spicy aroma. A spiced pâté is the one to put beside a cold drink.
Six pâtés, side by side
| Pâté | Fish | Smoke | Spice | First use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| shop José Gourmet sardine pâté | Atlantic and Mediterranean sardines | No | No | Toast with butter and lemon |
| shop José Gourmet mackerel pâté | Mackerel, with olive oil and sea salt | No | A few spices | Toast with mustard, or a tomato salad |
| shop José Gourmet spiced mackerel pâté | Mackerel | No | Piri-piri and red pepper | Crackers with a squeeze of lemon |
| shop Ati Manel smoked sardine pâté | Atlantic sardines | Yes | No | Crusty bread with pickled vegetables |
| shop Ati Manel smoked mackerel pâté | Mackerel | Yes | No | Rye with cornichons and pickled onion |
| shop Ati Manel spiced smoked tuna pâté | Tuna | Yes | Yes | Crusty bread with pickled vegetables |
How to serve it
On toast. The simplest use is the best test of a pâté. Toast a slice of country bread or baguette, spread the pâté thickly while the toast is still warm, and finish with black pepper and a little lemon zest, the grated outer peel. For a plain sardine or mackerel pâté, a thin layer of cold butter under the pâté softens the salt and makes the spread taste fuller. A smoked or spiced pâté needs nothing under it.
On crackers. A pâté wants a plain, sturdy cracker that holds its shape and stays out of the way: water crackers, thin rye crackers or crispbread. A plain cracker lets each pâté taste of its own fish. The crackers guide sorts the styles.
With something sharp. Pâté is rich, and acid makes the next bite welcome. Cornichons, which are small, tart French pickled cucumbers, pickled red onion, capers and lemon wedges all do that job. Set them beside the pâté, not on top, so each person seasons their own bite.
Into a dish. José Gourmet publishes recipes by Luís Baena on its pâté pages, and they show how far a tin can go beyond bread. The mackerel pâté goes into a tomato salad with thinly sliced red onion and small onions cooked in a reduction of tawny Port, sugar and white wine vinegar, and into a potato and mackerel pie made with mashed potato. The spiced mackerel pâté is served with white beans simmered in chicken broth, with basil, olive oil and chopped red chili. The sardine pâté goes into a potato salad with spring onion, parsley, dill, lemon and olive oil.
A pâté spread for a group
Pâté is one of the easiest things to put out for a crowd, because the work was done at the cannery. A good hors d'oeuvre spread for a party sets out three tins with clear differences, for example one plain, one smoked and one spiced, each turned out into a small bowl or ramekin with its own knife. Around them go toasted bread, two kinds of crackers, a bowl of cornichons, pickled onion and lemon wedges. Label each bowl with the fish so guests can tell sardine from mackerel at a glance. The tinned fish tasting guide covers order and plates when the whole evening is built around tins, and the vermut hour guide covers the Spanish habit of a small glass of vermouth with something salty before lunch.
Once a tin is open, its pâté is a perishable food and follows buffet rules. The Minnesota Department of Health advises holding cold buffet foods at 40°F or colder, keeping them cold by nesting dishes in bowls of ice or by serving from small dishes and replacing them from the refrigerator, and not leaving food at room temperature for more than two hours. It also advises setting out a fresh dish rather than adding new food to one that has been sitting out. For pâté, that means opening tins as the party needs them rather than all at once. A sealed tin keeps for years in the cupboard, so there is no reason to open the third tin before the first is gone. Leftover pâté goes into a covered container in the refrigerator; the guide to tinned fish after opening has the timings.
Pâté, pregnancy and mercury
Tinned pâté gets a different answer from the refrigerated kind. The FDA's food safety advice for pregnancy lists refrigerated pâtés and meat spreads as foods to avoid, and canned or shelf-stable pâtés and meat spreads as foods that are fine to eat. The concern with the refrigerated kind is Listeria monocytogenes, a bacterium that, unlike many others, can grow in the cold of a refrigerator. A sealed, heat-processed tin that keeps at room temperature falls on the safe side of that line. The same FDA page gives the same split for smoked seafood: refrigerated smoked fish is on the avoid list unless cooked into a dish, while canned or shelf-stable smoked seafood is fine.
On mercury, the FDA and EPA advice for people who are or may become pregnant or breastfeeding and for children places sardines, Atlantic mackerel and canned light tuna in the Best Choices tier, the lowest in mercury, at two to three servings a week for adults in that group. The species-by-species health guide covers the rest. None of this is medical advice, and a doctor can speak to the particulars.
The tin that is already the dish
Most tinned fish is an ingredient on its way to becoming something. A pâté has already arrived. The cannery has cooked the fish, chosen the oil, the smoke and the pepper, and blended it to a texture no home kitchen reaches with a fork, then sealed it so it waits in the cupboard until the evening it is needed. That is why the right way to serve it is mostly a matter of restraint: good bread, something sharp, one tin open at a time. The choice that matters is made before the lid comes off, between plain, smoked and spiced, sardine, mackerel and tuna. The wider shelf is in the tinned fish collection, and the story of the canneries that made these tins is in the Portuguese conservas guide.
The shop is at 263 Josephine Street in Cherry Creek, Denver, and visitors can ask staff questions in the shop. Products ship nationwide from theambrosianpantry.com.
Sources & Further Reading
- Flores, I. F. V., Desenvolvimento de Novos Produtos à Base de Pescado: Paté de Bacalhau e Paté de Ovas de Pescado, Escola Superior de Biotecnologia, Universidade Católica Portuguesa, 2019
- Lobo et al., Development and nutritional and sensory evaluation of cachapinta (Pseudoplatystoma sp) pâté, Food Science & Nutrition, 2014
- INAO: Cahier des charges, IGP Rillettes de Tours
- Pacific Northwest Extension (Washington State University, Oregon State University, University of Idaho): Smoking Fish at Home, Safely (PNW238)
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration: Listeria, Food Safety for Moms-to-Be
- U.S. Food and Drug Administration and Environmental Protection Agency: Advice About Eating Fish
- Minnesota Department of Health: Buffet food safety
- José Gourmet: Paté de Cavala
- José Gourmet: Paté de Cavala com Pimenta
- José Gourmet: Paté de Sardinha