A small saucepan of glossy dark compote of apricots, figs and cherries with a spoon lifting a plump apricot, wedges of blue and hard cheese on a board beside it

Dried Fruit Compote for the Cheese Board, in Twenty Minutes

A compote is fruit cooked in syrup, one of the oldest preparations in the French fruit repertoire, and the dried-fruit version is the one a pantry can make in any month of the year. Apricots, figs and cherries simmer with honey, cinnamon and lemon zest until the fruit is plump and the liquid has become a glossy syrup, which takes about twenty minutes and one saucepan. Then comes the step that decides what the jar is for: a spoonful of sherry vinegar, stirred in off the heat so its sharpness survives. Without it, this is a topping for yogurt and ice cream. With it, it is a condiment with enough acid to stand next to salt, mold and a two-year cheese, which is the whole argument of the acid guide in a single tablespoon. For how much cheese the board itself needs, cheese plate math has the numbers; on the compote, plan on a couple of tablespoons a person.

Ingredients

  • 150 g (1 cup) dried apricots, halved
  • 100 g (2/3 cup) dried figs, stemmed and quartered
  • 75 g (1/2 cup) dried tart cherries
  • 350 ml (1 1/2 cups) water, or half water and half dry white wine
  • 3 tablespoons honey
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 2 wide strips of lemon zest, plus 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • 1 small sprig rosemary (optional)
  • 1 pinch fine sea salt
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons sherry vinegar, or a condimento-grade balsamic
  • Coarsely cracked black pepper, to finish

Method

  1. Combine. Put the apricots, figs, cherries, water, honey, cinnamon stick, lemon zest, rosemary if using, and salt in a small saucepan and bring it to a bare simmer over medium heat.
  2. Simmer to a syrup. Lower the heat and simmer gently, uncovered, for 15 to 18 minutes, stirring now and then. The fruit drinks the liquid and swells; the liquid that remains reduces and picks up dissolved pectin from the fruit, so it turns from thin to syrupy. It is done when the fruit is fully plump and the syrup just coats a spoon. It will thicken further as it cools, so stop a little short of where it should end up.
  3. Add the vinegar off the heat. Take the pan off the burner, stir in the vinegar and the lemon juice, and let the compote stand for 10 minutes. Acid added at the end stays bright; acid simmered from the start cooks down into the background.
  4. Finish. Fish out the cinnamon stick, zest strips and rosemary, and grind coarse black pepper over the top. Taste: it should read sweet first and sharp a beat later. If it reads only sweet, add vinegar a teaspoon at a time.
  5. Serve. Warm or at room temperature, in a small bowl with its own spoon, beside the cheese rather than on it. Refrigerate leftovers in a covered jar and bring them back to room temperature before they meet cheese again; cold syrup goes stiff and dull.

Which cheese, what the compote is doing

Cheese family What the compote is doing Lean on
Blue (Stilton, Gorgonzola) Sugar against salt and mold, the oldest pairing on the board The figs and the honey
Aged hard (Parmigiano, aged Gouda) The vinegar cuts through crystalline, concentrated salt The sherry-vinegar edge
Alpine (Comté, Gruyère) Apricot echoes the nutty, brothy sweetness already in the paste The apricots
Bloomy rind (Brie, Camembert) Cherry and pepper give the cream something to push against The cherries and the pepper
Fresh goat Zest and rosemary meet the lactic tang instead of fighting it The lemon and the herb

Why it went wrong

Symptom Cause Fix
Cloying, dessert-sweet The vinegar went in too early and simmered away, or was skipped Add it off the heat; correct a finished batch a teaspoon at a time
Fruit still leathery The syrup reduced before the fruit could drink, usually from too hard a boil Keep it at a bare simmer; add hot water a splash at a time and keep going until the fruit gives
Syrup thin and watery Under-reduced, or the pan was covered Simmer uncovered a few minutes more; remember it thickens as it cools
Set up like candy when cool Over-reduced Loosen with hot water a spoonful at a time and stir
One flat sweet note A single fruit, no bitter or sharp edge Use at least two fruits, keep the zest, and do not skip the pepper

Notes and variations

The apricot color question. Bright orange dried apricots have been treated with sulfites before drying; the pretreatment exists to keep cut fruit from darkening. Untreated apricots are brown, with a deeper, more caramelized flavor. Both work here; the sulfured ones keep the compote prettier, the unsulfured ones make it taste older and darker, and which matters more is a personal call. The complete guide to dried fruit covers the label in detail.

The liquid is a dial. Water is the neutral setting. Half dry white wine makes it a dinner-party compote; strong black tea in place of the water adds tannin and works with an all-fig batch; fresh orange juice for half the water suits a version aimed at blue cheese. Whatever the liquid, the honey stays and the vinegar still goes in last. Per the honey guide, a wildflower honey earns its place here; the vinegar guide covers the choice of bottle.

In Denver, a shade above 5,000 feet, the pot behaves differently than the recipe times suggest. Water boils at about 202°F rather than 212°F, and liquids evaporate faster, so simmered foods cook slower while the syrup tightens quicker. In practice the fruit needs a few extra minutes and the pan may need a splash more water before the fruit is fully plump. The altitude guide explains the physics; the fix here is just patience and the kettle.

On the board, the compote takes the place jam usually holds, and it holds it better: cheese plate math's rule is that every accompaniment does a job, sweetness against salt or acid against fat, and the vinegar lets one jar do both. Warm, it is also the fastest route to a baked-brie centerpiece; spoon it over the wheel for the last five minutes in the oven.

The apricots, the figs, the honey and the sherry vinegar are at 263 Josephine Street in Cherry Creek, Denver, and ship nationwide from theambrosianpantry.com.

Sources & Further Reading

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