Pale golden shortbread fingers and a round of petticoat tails on a wooden board, one wedge snapped to show a fine sandy crumb, beside a block of butter, a scatter of flour and a cup of black tea

Shortbread Guide: Butter Biscuits From Scotland to Brittany

Shortbread is flour, butter and sugar, and in the plainest versions a pinch of salt. Walkers, the baker from the Speyside village of Aberlour, lists exactly those four ingredients for its shortbread, so the butter and the baking carry most of the weight. The same idea runs through a family of European butter biscuits, from the sablé of the Sarthe to the thin galettes and thick palets of Pont-Aven in Brittany to the Danish butter cookie. For baking a batch at home, the shortbread recipe to learn first is the place to start.

What makes shortbread short

In baking, short means crumbly. The Institute of Food Science and Technology defines a shortening as a fat, solid at room temperature, that gives foods a crumbly, crisp texture, and explains the mechanism: coating flour in fat stops it absorbing water, which hinders gluten from forming, and what gluten does form is broken into shorter strands. That is the sense of short in shortening, and the same sense sits in the name shortbread.

The same source notes that method changes the result. Rubbing fat into flour gives a flaky, layered texture, while beating fat with sugar gives something softer and more cake-like.

From biscuit bread to shortbread

Historic UK traces shortbread to the medieval biscuit bread, leftover bread dough dried in a low oven into a rusk. The word biscuit means twice cooked. Over time the yeast was replaced by butter, and biscuit bread became shortbread. Historic UK describes it as an expensive luxury, a treat that ordinary people kept for special occasions, and connects the custom of eating it at New Year, Hogmanay in Scotland, to the ancient Yule cakes that symbolized the sun.

Historic UK notes that shortbread has been attributed to Mary, Queen of Scots, who in the mid-sixteenth century was said to be fond of petticoat tails, a thin, crisp shortbread originally flavored with caraway seeds. The source's own wording, 'attributed' and 'said to be', marks this as tradition. The printed record starts later. Scotland's first printed cookbook, Mrs McLintock's Receipts for Cookery and Pastry-Work, appeared in 1736. The National Park Service, working from Elizabeth Cleland's 1755 A New and Easy Method of Cookery, published in Edinburgh, describes early shortbread as still rich with butter but containing nuts and dried fruits, called sweetmeats, and much of the time caraway seeds. Its version of the 1755 recipe is raised with barm, from the beer-making process.

The butter in a 1755 shortbread, worked out

The National Park Service adaptation of the 1755 recipe calls for 3 to 3¼ cups of flour, ¼ cup of sugar and three sticks of butter. Converted to weight, using the standard 113 grams to a stick of butter, about 125 grams to a cup of flour and about 200 grams to a cup of sugar, that is roughly 340 grams of butter, 375 to 405 grams of flour and 50 grams of sugar. Butter is about 43 to 44 percent of the butter, flour and sugar combined, before the barm and sweetmeats go in, and sugar is under 7 percent.

For comparison, Brittany's tourism board notes that a gâteau breton, a generous salted-butter sablé, must contain at least 20 percent butter to carry the name. By the calculation above, butter's share of the Scottish recipe is roughly twice that, though the two figures are not measured the same way. The Breton minimum applies to the whole cake, while this calculation leaves out the barm and sweetmeats. It was a butter dish first and a sweet one second.

Petticoat tails, fingers and rounds

Petticoat tails are a large round divided into wedges, thin and crisp in Historic UK's description. Historic UK gives two theories for the name: a corruption of the French petites gatelles, little cakes, or the old word tally, for the pattern used to cut the gored pieces of a petticoat. Fingers are cut from a thick rectangular slab, and rounds are individual discs.

The four-ingredient recipe survives in commercial baking. Walkers dates its start to 1898, when the twenty-one-year-old Joseph Walker opened his own bakery with a £50 loan, later moving to Aberlour, and says the family has kept to its simple recipe through the generations.

The French butter biscuits

The sablé. The town of Sablé-sur-Sarthe claims the biscuit: the Sarthe tourism board says the recipe for the sablé, an all-butter biscuit, has been handed down there since 1670, and the town's biscuit museum tells the story of its arrival at the French court with the Marquise de Sablé.

The galette de Pont-Aven. Brittany's tourism board says the thin round galette bretonne, in its most basic form, was made famous by the galettes of Pont-Aven, created by Isidore Penven in 1890. Pont-Aven sits in a region known for salted butter, which the Brittany salted butter food culture piece covers.

The palet breton. Also from Pont-Aven, and much thicker. The same tourism board describes it as a salted-butter biscuit more than a centimeter thick, invented in 1920 by the baker Alexis Le Villain, who named it Traou Mad, Breton for good things. The Concarneau and Pont-Aven tourist office adds that in 1950 the Traou Mad biscuiterie created its own Galette de Pont-Aven, golden from the oven and crisp.

The gâteau breton. Larger again: a whole cake of salted-butter sablé dough, its top scored in a crosshatch with a fork, with that 20 percent butter minimum behind the name.

The Danish butter cookie

According to the Danish encyclopedia Lex, Marinus Kjeldsen and his wife Anna, the daughter of a baker, founded Kjeldsens Småkagefabrik in Ejstrupholm in 1933 and bought land in Nørre Snede in Jutland the following year, where the company still has its headquarters. Danish Butter Cookies went to the United States from 1955 and became the company's main product. The business is now Kelsen Group.

The styles side by side

Style Where and when Form Butter, as the sources describe it
Petticoat tails Scotland; tradition attributes to the mid-sixteenth century Thin, crisp wedges of a large round Buttery, originally flavored with caraway
Shortbread fingers and rounds Scotland; shapes as described by Historic UK Fingers cut from a thick slab; rounds as individual discs Flour, butter, sugar and salt in the Walkers recipe
Sablé Sablé-sur-Sarthe; the town dates the recipe to 1670 Biscuit All butter
Galette de Pont-Aven Pont-Aven, Brittany; Penven, 1890; Traou Mad version, 1950 Thin, round, crisp and golden Butter
Palet breton Pont-Aven, Brittany; 1920 More than 1 cm thick Salted butter
Gâteau breton Brittany Whole cake, fork-scored crosshatch top Salted butter, at least 20 percent
Danish butter cookie Ejstrupholm, then Nørre Snede, Jutland; 1933 The company's main product, exported to the United States from 1955 Butter cookie

None of these is a better version of another. They are different answers to the same few ingredients, and the choice comes down to texture and the cup beside them.

Reading the ingredients list

The styles above set the benchmarks for a butter biscuit label: four ingredients in the Walkers shortbread, an all-butter sablé in the Sarthe, salted butter in the palet breton and the gâteau breton. The useful questions are whether butter is the only fat named, whether salt is there, and what else has joined the basics.

Storing butter biscuits

Kansas State University's cupboard storage guide gives about two months for packaged cookies and two to three weeks for homemade ones, in an airtight container, in a cool, dry, dark place away from appliances and sun.

How to serve them

With tea. The National Park Service pairs its 1755 shortbread with gunpowder tea, which it describes as one of the many popular teas of the eighteenth century. A strong black tea with milk is the other natural cup; the English Breakfast tea guide covers one classic blend, and the black tea buying guide explains the grades.

On a cheese board. A thin petticoat tail or galette sits well beside a sharp cheddar or a blue, the way a sweet cracker does. The crackers guide covers the savory side of the board.

As a dessert component. Crumbled shortbread makes a quick base for a cheesecake or a fruit fool. A palet breton such as Filet Bleu Palets Bretons (shop Filet Bleu Palets Bretons) beside a bowl of berries or a cup of coffee is dessert with no baking at all.

Baked at home. The brown butter shortbread recipe takes the plain recipe one step toward caramel, and the biscotti and butter cookies guide covers the Italian side of the family.

The shop is at 263 Josephine Street in Cherry Creek, Denver, where visitors can ask staff questions, and products ship nationwide from theambrosianpantry.com.

Sources & Further Reading

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