Elderflower Gummies: The Gelatin Recipe to Learn First
A gummy is a sweet syrup set with just enough gelatin to chew, and the whole craft is proportion and handling. Too little gelatin and the result is a wobbly dessert; too much heat or acid at the wrong moment and the gel never reaches its strength. This recipe is the one to learn first because every quantity is weighed toward a single number: about 7 percent gelatin at the pour, the low end of the 7 to 9 percent range the Gelatin Manufacturers Institute of America gives for gummy bears, rising as the candies dry. The flavor is elderflower, the pale, floral note behind Swedish sour elderflower fish, and it comes from a syrup, so the batch needs no juicing and no fresh fruit to fight the gel. The finished gummies are clear, pale gold, softer than a commercial bear on the first day and properly chewy by the second.
Ingredients, for about 100 small gummies
- 50 g (3 1/2 tablespoons) cold water
- 21 g (3 envelopes) unflavored powdered gelatin
- 140 g (scant 1/2 cup) elderflower syrup, such as Bacanha elderflower (shop Bacanha elderflower)
- 50 g (1/4 cup) granulated sugar
- 30 g (1 1/2 tablespoons) mild honey, such as Bee Squared clover (shop Bee Squared clover)
- 10 g (2 teaspoons) fresh lemon juice
- Neutral oil, for hard molds (skip for silicone)
- Optional sour coat: 25 g (2 tablespoons) granulated sugar and 2 g (1/2 teaspoon) citric acid
The arithmetic. The batch weighs 301 g before it goes into the molds, and 21 g of that is gelatin: 7.0 percent. Water leaves in the pan and more leaves on the counter during the cure, so the finished gummy sits inside the handbook's gummy-bear range. Weigh everything; a tablespoon of honey or syrup is too imprecise for a recipe built on a percentage. Silicone molds of about 2 ml per cavity give roughly 100 pieces.
Method
- Bloom the gelatin. Pour the cold water into a small bowl and sprinkle the gelatin evenly over the surface so every granule is wet. Leave it for five minutes. The GMIA handbook describes the method: gelatin granules soaked in cold water hydrate into swollen particles, which dissolve on warming. The handbook calls it the preferred method where high concentrations are wanted, and a gummy is a high concentration.
- Warm the syrup, never boil it. Put the elderflower syrup, sugar and honey in a small saucepan over medium-low heat and stir until the sugar dissolves and the syrup steams, about three minutes. Take it off the heat. Gelatin's gel strength weakens with prolonged heating above roughly 40°C (104°F), so the syrup gets hot enough to melt the gelatin and no hotter for no longer.
- Melt in the gelatin. Scrape the bloomed gelatin into the hot syrup and stir slowly, without whisking, until no granules remain, one to two minutes. If it stalls, return the pan to the lowest heat for a few seconds at a time, never to a simmer. Slow stirring keeps air out, and air bubbles set into cloudy gummies.
- Acid last. Off the heat, stir in the lemon juice, then skim the foam from the surface with a spoon. The handbook lists prolonged heat and extremes of pH among the things that degrade gelatin, so the lemon goes in only after the heating is over.
- Fill. Oil hard molds lightly; silicone needs nothing. Fill the cavities with a dropper or a spouted measuring cup, working steadily. If the mixture thickens in the pan before the molds are full, rewarm it gently for a few seconds.
- Set. Refrigerate the molds for one to two hours, until the gummies are firm, then pop them out.
- Cure. Spread the gummies on parchment or a wire rack at room temperature, uncovered, for 24 to 48 hours, turning them once. Fresh from the mold they are a jelly. As the surface dries and the water content drops, they become a chew, and they are ready when the outsides no longer feel tacky.
- Coat, if sour. Toss the cured gummies in the sugar and citric acid just before serving. Acid sugar draws moisture and turns wet on standing, so coat only what will be eaten that day. Store the rest airtight at cool room temperature and eat within a week.
Why it went wrong
| Symptom | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Never set, or set soft and weepy | The syrup boiled, or sat hot too long, or the lemon went in while it was still on the heat | Warm to steaming only, melt the gelatin off the heat, add acid last |
| Gritty specks inside | Gelatin sprinkled in a clump, so the center never hydrated | Scatter it over the whole surface of the water and give the bloom the full five minutes |
| Cloudy, with a foamy top layer | Whisking whipped in air | Stir slowly with a spoon and skim before filling |
| Rubbery and tough | Too much gelatin, or cured too long in very dry air | Weigh the gelatin; start checking the cure at 18 hours in a dry kitchen |
| Sticky days later | Not cured long enough, or stored in the fridge, where they sweat | Cure until the surface is dry; store airtight at room temperature |
| Grainy | Sugar crystallized in the pan | Keep the honey in the batch; its glucose and fructose interfere with sucrose crystals |
Notes and variations
Other syrups. The same weights work with passion fruit, strawberry or rose syrup in place of elderflower. Fruit juice can replace part of the syrup, with one caution: fresh pineapple, kiwi and papaya contain enzymes (bromelain, actinidin and papain) that break gelatin down so it cannot set. Cooked or canned versions of those fruits work, because heat destroys the enzymes. Without gelatin the recipe becomes a different candy. Pectin sets fruit and sugar into a tender slice that melts rather than chews, and that method lives in the pâte de fruit guide.
In Denver. This recipe never cooks sugar to a thermometer stage, so the standard altitude correction does not apply to it, and it works unchanged at 5,280 feet. The correction matters when adapting a candy recipe that does call for a syrup temperature: Colorado State University Extension advises lowering the target by 2°F for every 1,000 feet, about 10°F in Denver, because water boils lower and evaporates faster at elevation, and without the adjustment the syrup can turn hard or grainy. Faster evaporation at elevation is also why the syrup should only steam, not reduce. Denver's dry air can shorten the cure too, so start checking the gummies at 18 hours.
What the shop-bought version teaches. Taste a homemade gummy beside a Bonbon sour elderflower fish (shop Bonbon sour elderflower fish) and the difference in chew is the difference in curing and formulation that the Swedish candy guide walks through. The gummy candy guide covers the wider category.
Sources & Further Reading
- Gelatin Manufacturers Institute of America: Gelatin Handbook
- Colorado State University Extension: Candy Making at High Elevation
- McGill University Office for Science and Society: Why Can't I Use Fresh Pineapple to Make Jell-O?
- Harold McGee, On Food and Cooking, chapter 12, "Sugars, Chocolate, and Confectionery"
- The Pantry Dispatch: Pâte de Fruit, The Complete Guide
- The Pantry Dispatch: Swedish Candy, The Complete Guide
- The Pantry Dispatch: New Nordic in a Bottle