Sardine Toast, Five Ways
A tin of good sardines is already cooked, already seasoned and already sitting in its own oil. The bread is the plate, and the rest is one idea per slice. The basics of opening and serving the tin are in the guide to serving sardines straight from the tin. These are five specific toasts, each one tin and one slice, each ten minutes.
The bread for all five: a thick slice of sourdough or country loaf, grilled or toasted hard, still warm. The tin: whole sardines in olive oil, or the specific tin named. Sardines sit alongside every other tin in the tinned fish guide.
1. The Portuguese: butter, lemon, salt
Butter first: a thick, cold, salted layer, because the butter's fat and the sardine's oil together are the whole pleasure. Spread the warm toast thickly with good unsalted butter and a pinch of flaky salt, or with salted butter and none. Lay two or three sardines across, skin up. Grate lemon zest over, add a few drops of juice and a grind of black pepper. That is the dish. If the tin is José Gourmet's sardines in Azores butter, skip the butter on the bread and spoon the tin's own melted butter over instead (the José Gourmet Azores butter sardines guide covers that tin).
2. The Catalan: tomato, oil, Espinaler
Make pan con tomate (the pan con tomate recipe): rub the hot toast with a halved ripe tomato, pour over olive oil, salt it. Lay the sardines on top, split open so the flesh faces up. Shake three or four drops of Espinaler sauce (shop Espinaler sauce) over the fish. It is a vinegar sauce seasoned with peppers and spices, meant for shaking over tinned fish, and the Espinaler producer guide covers how it is used. A few slivers of raw onion if you like them. Eat standing up, ideally at one on a Sunday.
3. The Sicilian: raisins, pine nuts, breadcrumbs
Sicily's great sardine dish, pasta con le sarde, pairs the fish with sweet raisins, pine nuts, wild fennel and toasted breadcrumbs, a sweet-and-savory match that Sicilian legend credits to the cook of an Arab army. On toast: warm a tablespoon of the sardine oil in a small pan, add a spoon of golden raisins, a spoon of pine nuts and a handful of coarse breadcrumbs, and toast until the crumbs are golden and the raisins plump, about two minutes. Rub the toast with a garlic clove, lay the sardines on it, spoon the crumb mixture over, and finish with chopped parsley or fennel fronds and a squeeze of lemon. A drop of sherry vinegar (the vinegar guide) over the top is not Sicilian and is very good.
4. The Breton: brown butter, chives, flaky salt
Brittany is the historic heart of French sardine canning, home to the oldest sardine cannery still working, in Douarnenez. On toast: melt two tablespoons of butter in a small pan over medium heat and cook, swirling, until it foams, smells nutty and turns the color of a hazelnut, about three minutes. Lay the sardines on plain buttered toast, pour the hot brown butter over them so it sizzles, and scatter chopped chives and a pinch of flaky salt (the flaky salt guide).
5. Ours: the egg and the hot sauce
This one has no country. Toast the bread, rub it with garlic, drizzle it with olive oil. Split two sardines and lay them flat, skin up. Fry an egg in a little of the sardine oil until the white is set and the yolk is runny, slide it on top of the fish, and streak it with hot sauce (the hot sauce guide). Flaky salt, black pepper, and a few chopped green olives (the olives guide) if there is a jar open. Cut the yolk and let it run into the fish. Breakfast, lunch or the dinner made at eleven at night.
Notes that apply to all five
Buy sardines in olive oil for toast. Brine-packed fish are for salads and sauces. Warm the toast, not the fish; tinned sardines are at their best at room temperature on hot bread. Use the oil from the tin somewhere on the plate, on the bread, in the pan or over the top, and the leftover tin oil guide has more uses for it. Acid is not optional; every one of the five has lemon, tomato, vinegar or hot sauce, because acid cuts the richness of oily fish. A single tin serves one person as a meal or two as a snack.
Any whole sardines in olive oil work for all five, among them José Gourmet's sardines in extra virgin olive oil (shop José Gourmet sardines) and Ramón Peña's Silver Line sardines (shop Ramón Peña sardines). The shop is at 263 Josephine Street in Cherry Creek, Denver, and products ship nationwide from theambrosianpantry.com.
Sources & Further Reading
- The Pantry Dispatch: How to Serve Sardines Straight from the Tin
- The Pantry Dispatch: José Gourmet Sardines in Azores Butter Guide
- The Pantry Dispatch: Espinaler Producer Guide
- The Pantry Dispatch: The Complete Guide to Tinned Fish
- De Cecco: Pasta con le sarde, the authentic taste of Sicily
- Table Journey: Pasta con le sarde
- ERIH: La Belle-Iloise Canning Works
- Locronan Tourisme: Chancerelle, Douarnenez