Halved pears poached in a deep ruby liquid in a wide pan, beside a spooned-over pork chop glossy with reduced pan sauce and a bowl of pale pink granita

Cooking with Zero-Proof Drinks: Uses That Earn Their Place

A sauce made with wine and simmered for 15 minutes still holds 40 percent of the wine's alcohol, by the USDA's measure. A zero-proof bottle deals with that, and it does more than stand in for wine. In the pan it adds acid, or sugar and aroma that concentrate as the liquid cooks down, or a flavored liquid that leaves little or no alcohol behind. What the bottle is made from decides which of these it does well, and that decides where it goes in the pan. This page sorts the bottles by job, with the method and the reason for each, and links the recipes that already use them. The non-alcoholic drinks guide covers the category itself.

The case for the bottle: alcohol does not all cook off

The USDA Table of Nutrient Retention Factors takes its alcohol figures from a lab study that measured alcohol in food after it was cooked. Alcohol stirred into a hot liquid keeps 85 percent of its alcohol. Flamed, it keeps 75 percent. Stirred and simmered or baked, it keeps 40 percent after 15 minutes, 25 percent after an hour, 10 percent after two hours and 5 percent after two and a half.

A cup of wine, about 237 ml, at 13 percent alcohol holds about 31 ml of ethanol. Apply the USDA factors and the dish still carries the amounts in the table below. A dealcoholized wine labeled under 0.5 percent holds at most about 1.2 ml in the same cup before it goes near the heat. Weingut Leitz states that its Eins-Zwei-Zero wines contain less than 0.1 percent alcohol, which is under 0.25 ml per cup. When the table includes children, pregnant guests or anyone who does not drink, that gap is the reason a zero-proof bottle earns its place. A sauce made with wine only gets part of the way down, and one made with a zero-proof bottle starts close to zero.

One cup of liquid in the pan Alcohol retained (USDA) Ethanol left in the dish
13% wine, stirred into hot liquid 85% About 26 ml
13% wine, simmered 15 minutes 40% About 12 ml
13% wine, simmered 1 hour 25% About 8 ml
13% wine, simmered 2 hours 10% About 3 ml
Wine labeled under 0.5%, before cooking Not applicable Under 1.2 ml
Wine under 0.1%, before cooking Not applicable Under 0.25 ml

What to read on the label before cooking

Two numbers on the label matter. The first is alcohol. Federal rules for malt beverages allow the word "non-alcoholic" only when the words "contains less than 0.5 percent alcohol by volume" appear right next to it. They reserve "alcohol free" for malt beverages that contain no alcohol at all. These rules cover malt beverages, not wine or wine alternatives, so read the number printed on the bottle rather than the adjective.

The second number is sugar. Reducing a liquid concentrates everything that does not evaporate, so the sugar figure, where the label gives one, tells you how quickly a reduction will turn from sauce to syrup. The sweeter the bottle, the earlier the sauce comes off the heat.

Job one: deglazing, with dealcoholized wine

Leitz makes its Eins-Zwei-Zero wines by vacuum distillation. The estate says that under vacuum the alcohol's boiling point drops to around 29°C (84°F), so it can be drawn off with gentle heat while the wine keeps as much of its aroma as possible. What reaches the cook is wine with almost no ethanol, which suits a pan sauce.

The method. Sear the meat or mushrooms, lift them out and pour off all but a spoonful of fat. Add half a cup of dealcoholized wine to the hot pan and scrape up the browned bits. Reduce by about half, until the sauce coats the back of a spoon. Turn off the heat, swirl in a tablespoon of cold butter and taste for salt and acid. With a dealcoholized wine there is little alcohol left to cook off, so reduce only until the flavor is where it should be.

Leitz expanded the Eins-Zwei-Zero family with the Zero-Point-Five wines, starting with a Pinot Noir and a Cabernet Sauvignon. Leitz's under 0.1 percent statement appears on its Eins-Zwei-Zero page, so for the Zero-Point-Five wines, read the label for their own alcohol number. Leitz Zero Point Five Pinot Noir (shop Leitz Zero Point Five Pinot Noir) is a red that fits this method.

Job two: acid, with verjus

NON takes a different route. Aaron Trotman founded NON in Melbourne. Instead of removing alcohol from wine, NON builds its drinks on a base of verjus, the unfermented juice of young, unripe grapes, cooks fruit and spices in-house by roasting, stewing, steeping and curing, and filters in two stages. The verjus brings acid, so in the kitchen it can go where vinegar or lemon would.

The method. Use a verjus-based bottle as the acid in a vinaigrette. Whisk one part into three parts olive oil with a pinch of salt, taste, and add more of the acid a spoonful at a time. Spoon it over bitter leaves or sliced cured meats. For a warm sauce, reduce it by half in a pan and swirl in a knob of cold butter off the heat, then spoon it over mushrooms or duck. The dressing ratios are in the vinaigrette ratio guide, and the case for acid in general is in the piece on acid in home cooking.

Job three: poaching, and using sparkling drinks cold

Fruit poached in wine takes on the wine's color and flavor, and a zero-proof red does the same job. The method. Bring two cups of dealcoholized Pinot Noir to a bare simmer with a strip of orange peel, a cinnamon stick and two tablespoons of sugar, or less if the label already shows plenty of sugar. Add four peeled, halved pears, cover with a circle of parchment and poach for 15 to 25 minutes, until a knife slides in without resistance. Lift out the pears and reduce the liquid to a syrup to spoon over them.

Sparkling tea's kitchen uses are cold ones. Pour it over sliced strawberries or peaches and leave them for 20 minutes. Freeze it in a shallow tray and scrape it every half hour into a granita, or set it with gelatin into a clear jelly to serve with cream. The Copenhagen Sparkling Tea Company guide describes the three styles: Blå (shop Blå), Lyserød (shop Lyserød) and Lysegrøn (shop Lysegrøn).

Job four: glazing, with syrups and craft sodas

A syrup is already reduced, so it makes a quick glaze. The method. Mix two tablespoons of ginger syrup with a tablespoon of soy sauce and a squeeze of lime. Brush it over carrots, salmon or chicken thighs for the last ten minutes of roasting. Use elderflower syrup in place of sugar in a fruit salad, or whisk a teaspoon into a vinaigrette for bitter greens. The Bacanha syrup guide covers the full range, including Bacanha Ginger (shop Bacanha Ginger Syrup) and Bacanha Elderflower (shop Bacanha Elderflower Syrup). To make a syrup from scratch, see the cocktail syrup recipe.

A craft soda needs longer. Simmer a bottle in a wide pan until about a quarter of it is left and it bubbles thick and slow, then brush it onto ribs or wings in the last stage of cooking. Take it off the heat while it still runs, because it firms up as it cools.

Job five: finishing, with ready-made zero-proof cocktails

Ready-made zero-proof cocktails work at the cold end of a meal. Spoon a little over sorbet, or use one to soak cut fruit for a few minutes before serving.

The five jobs at a glance

Drink Job What heat does Method Goes with
Dealcoholized wine Deglaze Concentrates fruit, acid and sugar Reduce by half, finish with cold butter Chicken, pork, mussels, mushrooms, duck
Verjus-based wine alternative Acid Reduces to a sharp sauce 1:3 with oil, or reduce with butter Bitter leaves, cured meats, mushrooms
Zero-proof red Poach Colors and flavors fruit, then reduces to syrup Bare simmer 15 to 25 minutes Pears, quinces, plums
Sparkling tea Cold uses Served cold Granita, jelly, soaking fruit Stone fruit, berries, cream
Syrup or craft soda Glaze Thickens and caramelizes fast Brush on in the final stage Carrots, salmon, ribs, wings
Ready-made cocktail Finish Served cold Serve cold over sorbet or fruit Desserts

Bitters, and drinks for the table

Aromatic bitters have their own pages: the cocktail bitters guide and the guide to using bitters outside cocktails. For drinks to pour with a zero-proof dinner, see the zero-proof Negroni recipe and the zero-proof maple Old Fashioned recipe.

The shop is at 263 Josephine Street in Cherry Creek, Denver. Visitors can ask staff questions in the shop. Products ship nationwide from theambrosianpantry.com.

Sources & Further Reading

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